Dipping carbons

[Jeff Kruse]

I was thinking about dipping a full  carbon shaft. (Solid white) and then cresting it. Just wondering if anybody has done this? and what type of dip works best? And if you have any pictures could you post them?
thanks
Jeff

[petalumapete]

I just tape em off and spray paint them.

[Jeff Kruse]

How good does the paint hold up, with target practice?

[TRAP]

I havent done one full length but I use Krylon fusion to do a crown and then crest and then cover with 2 coats of clear water based poly.  

If you give the poly enough cure time it should be pretty durable.

Trap

[trad_bowhunter1965]

great advice above.

[Jeff Kruse]

that Krylon fusion in a spray can or do you dip it?
Jeff

[STICKBENDER98]

I've never done a full length dip but have done some 12" dips, I still use the bohning paints, they are smelly and you have to thin them, but they seem to be durable.  I think for a full length the spray paint would be the way to go, I'm sure with alot of shooting into a target the paint would start to wear off the end with any kind of paint.

[bigbadjon]

Spray paint isn't as durable as Bohning nor does it look very good. I would suggest dipping. There is an issue where paint will pool at the end of the shaft leaving a raised spot. If you use a dipping plug, also from Bohning, it will mitigate the problem.

[Shawn Leonard]

Spray paint is as durable and does look as good as long as you spray a few coats of clear poly over it. Lightly sand the shaft first and stuff a golf tee into the end of it before applying the spray paint and the clear poly. Use a razor blade to cut around the tee before removing. Lightly steel wool between coats as well(#0004 steel wool). I have had this hold up for as long as I have had the shafts! Shawn

[TRAP]

Originally posted by bigbadjon:
Spray paint isn't as durable as Bohning nor does it look very good. I would suggest dipping. There is an issue where paint will pool at the end of the shaft leaving a raised spot. If you use a dipping plug, also from Bohning, it will mitigate the problem.

I've used Bohning in the past and I'll have to respectfully disagree with this statement.  

I'll never open another can of Bohning.

Trap

[bigbadjon]

Not to be argumentative but thousands of archers would disagree with your statement. Fletch Lac is the standard to be topped. A can of hardware store spray paint will never be as good. I've seen and gotten good results with other products but a spray finish has never been as presentable as a dip.

[TRAP]

thousands of archers would disagree with which of my statements Bigbadjon?

Here's the 4 statements I've made since this thread began.  

1.-"I havent done one full length but I use Krylon fusion to do a crown and then crest and then cover with 2 coats of clear water based poly."
2.-"If you give poly enough cure time it should be pretty durable"
3.-"I've used Bohning in the past and I'll have to respectfully disagree with this statement."
4.- "I'll never open another can of Bohning products"

Trust me, they're all true

Trap

[bigbadjon]

I'll take issue with statement three where you discard with my advice. I stand by the fact that Bohning is the strongest, slickest, and the best pigmented.

[petalumapete]

I tend to be hard on arrows. I try to shoot 100 a day which wears them out fairly fast.Combine that with breaking them and loosing them.The reasion I even bother to paint them is I want bright colors usally white with hot pink fade in so I can find them in the grass. I use cheep Wally World paint. beat the hell out of them and the paint always outlast the shafts.

[Shawn Leonard]

If you dip cut the paint with mineral spirits 30 to 70 that way it will be thin and dry quicker and less chance of runs. If you spray just do several super light coats and let dry good in between. To each his own but I used Bohning for a few years, brutally stinky and never thought it looked as good as other paints. Shawn