Need bareshaft help

[LeverActionman]

I am shooting a Samick sage 50@28 and I draw 28. I have added a bear weather rest and my bareshaft arrows hit nock left. My fletched arrows hit left of where I am looking. Are they too stiff of not stiff enough? Thanks

[RedStag5728]

Bare shafts are more apt to show errors in tuning as well as form. Fletched arrows provide stability to the back of the arrow and provide more error support in tuning.

Best thing to do is shoot at 20 yards, anything closer and the arrow has not properly come out of paradox before it strikes the target. If the arrow is hitting nock left, that indicates a weak spine, nock right indicates a stiff spine.

So if you are hitting nock left (weak spine), lower your tip weight, or go with a stiffer spined arrow. If you are nock right (stiff spine) go with a heavier tip or weaker spined arrow.

What's getting me is a nock left arrow should be hitting right of where you're looking as the arrow flies in the direction of where the point is (point hits right in nock left). This suggests either you are shooting too close and the arrow cannot completely come out of paradox, or an error in your form, or you (like me) tend to move your bow arm upon release.

[will_hunt]

1st. Make absolutely sure of your brace height.
2nd. Make absolutely certain of your nock point.
3rd. Start with a bare shaft about two inches     longer than your draw length.
4th. Go ahead and epoxy the insert into the forward end as you can cut off the nock end as you go.
5th. Shoot the bare shaft from ten yards. If you are right handed and the nock goes left of center then the spine is too weak. If the nock goes right (doubt it will at first)the shaft is too stiff. Remove the nock and trim off a half inch.  Replace the nock and shoot again. If you are left handed, the opposite applies.
6th. Shoot and trim until you reach a length  where you see consistent flight each shot. Back up to fifteen yards, then twenty until you are smiling after each thirty yard shot with a bare shaft.
THE ONLY THING I CAN TELL YOU ABOUT TESTING IN THIS MANNER IS THAT I BELIEVE YOU WILL DISCOVER THE GREAT INCONSISTENCIES OF CARBON ARROWS. I HAVE WITNESSED A HOST OF REACTIONS FROM DIFFERENT BRANDS AND EVEN DIFFERENT SHAFTS FROM A MATCHED SET.
That said, when you get them right--they are right.

[beaunaro]

I'm kind of new...always had somebody else build my arrows, and they shoot well, but I really learned a lot from this post.
As I read thru it, everyone kept saying it's a tuning issue. I didn't understand until I read the last post.
A huge thank you to will_hunt!
I copied your steps word for word.
This is yet another example of the unselfish sharing of information that goes on with this site.
tradgang and it's members is/are the best.

[Shawn Leonard]

What arrows are ya shooting. Length, point weight and your draw length. No way to tell you anything as they could be way stiff or way weak and getting an opposite reaction so they may hit target like they are stiff but actually way too weak and getting an opposite result. No one can answer your question without way more info.Shawn

[Shawn Leonard]

Here is a quick reference, if you draw 28"s and the bow is 50#s and you are shooitng carbons, than a .500 spine cut to 29"s with anywhere from 175-225 grains of point weight will get you in the ball park. Shawn

[LeverActionman]

I'm shooting 2016 Easton's with 125 grain point cut at 28.5

[Shawn Leonard]

Actually you seem pretty close on spine where you are at. It may have a lot more to do with your release and form. Shawn

[LeverActionman]

That is what I was I was thinking too.