I want woods, but don't know where to start

[rwbowman]

So naturally, I've come to the conlusion that I'd like to try some wood arrows, but have no idea where to start. Are arrow charts for woods as accurate for a starting point as say carbon or aluminum? I shoot a custom longbow, 62", 47# at my draw length. Shooting dynaflight 12 strand D97 and currently throwing GT Trad 3555 carbons. I like broadheads in the 150 grain range. ANy recommendations?

[Mike Vines]

Are you wanting to make your own, or have someone build them for you?  If it's the latter option, there are quite a few sponsors on here that can fix you up.  Just to name a couple, Magnus and Snag come to mind instantly.

[Shawn Leonard]

Kelly Petersen(Kelly) used to have the best chart available to get people started with wood. We really need to know your draw length. Here is what he used to say to the best of my recollection. Everything was based on a 28" arrow, so if you draw 28"s and shot a 29" arrow you would add 5#s of spine for every inch over 28"s to the BOP for arrow than you would add 10-15#s for a modern R/D longbow depending on how radical it is. Than you would add 5#s of spine for every 25 grains you added in point weight over 125 grains. So lets say this, you draw 28"s and your bow is 47#s, you start at 45-50 spine, now you need an arrow 29"s so ya add 5#s and you go to 50-55# spine, now your bow is a mild R/Dlongbow and shoots pretty hard(efficiently) add 10#, that get ya to the top end of 60-65# spine. Now ya want to shoot 160 grain broadhead or field point add another 5#. If your bow is cut to center 65-70# spine should do it for ya, cut past even better, ya still can shoot that same spine. So you end up with a shaft 29"s BOP with 160 grain head for my hypothetical set-up. I am shooting a 54# Caribow I draw 28"s I added 15#s due to performace and cut shatfs to 29"s so 5 more pounds and shoot 160 grain heads so added 5 more pounds and ended up with 75-80# spine woodies and they fly great. To be perfect, I found the ones that spine 76-78#s fly perfect. Sorry for the ramble, but Kellys chsrt always put me dead on, maybe he will chime in! Shawn

[snag]

This is what Kelly's site used to say:
"What spine should I shoot with my traditional bow?"

If you are shooting a modern longbow (shelf cut not quite to center), with a Dacron string (B50, B500,etc) and your draw length is 28" and you are shooting a wood arrow with a 125gr point, spined the same as the bow's draw weight (at your draw length) is a good place to start. Remember if your bow's draw weight is rated at 28" but your draw length is less, then you are drawing 2-3# less for each inch under 28". If your draw length is over 28", you are drawing 2-3# more for each inch over 28".

If your draw length is more than 28", add 5# for each addtional inch over 28".
If your draw length less than 28", substract 5# for each inch less than 28".

If you're shooting a recurve (cut to center) or a high performance longbow, add 5-10#.
If you're shooting a self bow, subtract 5-10#.

If using Fast Flight or other low stretch string, add 5#.

If the point weight is more than 125grs, add 1# for each additional 7 grs. over 125 grs.

There are some variables that will slightly alter this. One being how far before center or past center your bow is cut.
This is why I offer a "test kit" of arrows. I can usually narrow it down to a couple of spine groups after getting all the info. Then I will send you some arrows to shoot and see how they fly out of your bow.
We also need to know your bow's poundage and draw length rating and your draw length. What is your bow's make and model?

One thing we do know at this point is that if you want to shoot 150gr points you are going to need add about 3-4# more spine to the arrows when going through the configuration.
150gr-125gr=25gr  25gr/7gr= 3.57#....about 3-4#...   :rolleyes:  
Thanks, David

[MnFn]

I have used Snag and Shawn as resources in selecting proper spine for my bows at different times and both were spot on in their suggestions.

I would highly recommend you take Snag up on his  offer to use a test kit after you discuss your specs and needs with him. I will tell you I was very, very surprised with what spine I ended up with on a 48# Pronghorn recently.

Hope you find what you need,
Gary

[Bjorn]

With so many bows cut past center I use the formula above and add 5# per 16th past center.
It also goes the other way too for bows that are cut 'proud' of center.

[Sockrsblur]

There are some information rich posts!
Thanks guys!

[rwbowman]

Thanks for all the responses! My longbow is a modern, cut shy of center, bult by John Holzrichter here in town. It's rated 50# @ 28", but I draw it to 27" and scaled it at 47# @ 27". I use a Dynaflight D97 12 strand flemish string. Snag, I would love to try a test kit.

[Fletcher]

i would guess 50-54 for a 28" arrow and 125 point, but the test arrows are the best way to go.  Formulas can get you close, but shooting is the only way to really find out.

A good set of test arrows is a great tool and investment.  I'm yet to have someone regret making the investment.  I like them in 2 lb increments and each arrow showing its actual spine, not just a range like 50-55.  50-55 is six pounds and that isn't near close enuf, IMO.  Paper tuning works best for me.  I generally see a three pound range where arrows shoot the best.  Your eye can't see the difference, but the paper can.

[LittleBen]

I use Stu MIllers spine calculator ... seems to work well. Why should I calculate when I have a computer ....