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Author Topic: arrow question  (Read 304 times)

Offline turdyptbuck

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arrow question
« on: May 31, 2013, 02:59:00 PM »
Hey Y'all,

Im new to traditional archery and have 2 older longbows that Im practicing with. The first one is a 1973 York hickory longbow with no shelf 66' 53@28 (tearing my knuckle up) and the other is a Dan Quillian Archery Traditions longbow with a shelf 66' 57@28. I've been shooting the same arrows with both bows and haven't seen that much of a difference, but I don't know enough yet to tell a difference. Anyway, I eventually want to buy a newer/better bow to hunt with and want to know if I can just keep the same arrows (just had a dozen made)or do I need to get a whole new set.

Offline turdyptbuck

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Re: arrow question
« Reply #1 on: May 31, 2013, 03:05:00 PM »
After shooting these 2 bows I think I need something in the 45-50lbs range.

Offline Alexander Traditional

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Re: arrow question
« Reply #2 on: May 31, 2013, 03:06:00 PM »
If you get a new bow that is close enough in draw weight you should be able to use the same arrows.

Offline njloco

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Re: arrow question
« Reply #3 on: May 31, 2013, 03:08:00 PM »
What arrows are you shooting ? Use a leather glove for the bow hand on the bow with no shelf. What 's wrong with either bow to hunt with ?

With the York bow , the arrows has to be spined so it can bend around the bow as you release. With the Quillian if it's more center cut, the arrow doesn't have to bend around the bow as much, so you might be able to use a stiffer spined arrow, unless they are already flying well.

P.S. Don't be over bowed if you are just starting out, a lighter draw weight will allow you to gain good form and then move on to heavier draw weight bows.
  • Leon Stewart 3pc. 64" R/D 51# @ 27"
  • Gordy Morey 2pc. 68" R/D 55# @ 28"
  • Hoyt Pro Medalist, 70" 42# @ 28" (1963)
  • Bear Tamerlane 66" 30# @ 28" (1966)- for my better half
  • Bear Kodiak 60" 47# @ 28"(1965)

Offline ARCHER2

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Re: arrow question
« Reply #4 on: May 31, 2013, 03:12:00 PM »
No real way to answer this since you don't know what bow you may wind up with. Lots of variables,draw weight, cut to center or past center on the riser,point weight, etc. May work out, may not.There are differences in the arrows whether they are wood,carbon, or aluminum too. If you're like most of us you'll have several different sets of arrows before to long. Good luck with your endeavor. It's very addictive for sure. You're at the right place for loads of valuable information. There are folks on here that have forgotten more about traditional archery than I'll ever know.
Shoot straight!
Charlie   :archer2:
But they that wait upon the Lord shall renew their strength:they shall mount up with wings as eagles:they shall run and not be weary:and they shall walk and not faint......Isaiah 40;31

"TGMM Family of the Bow"

Offline LittleBen

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Re: arrow question
« Reply #5 on: May 31, 2013, 03:21:00 PM »
I second everything thats been said. If you're using carbons, you can usually tune them over a pretty wide range using different point weights. Everything from 100gr to 300 grains is readily available.

Personally with my carbons I use the gold tip screw in insert weights to tune whtat way I can use the same broadheads and field points. the insert weights screw into the back of the insert through the nock end using a super long allen wrench tool thats like $10. I will warn you though, not all inserts are threaded all the way through so not all arrows work with the insert weights unless you run a tap through the insert all the way through.

I've also found that shooting an arrow thats longer than I need makes them less sensitive to spine issues. I often shoot full length carbons even though I only need a 25-26" arrow, this also means I can cut them down if they break and still get use out of them.

Offline turdyptbuck

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Re: arrow question
« Reply #6 on: May 31, 2013, 07:07:00 PM »
I have carbon arrows that are 500 9.71gpi.  Im shooting well enough with these bows to hunt inside 20yds im just getting like everyone else on here and want more bows! hehe.  I think I would be more consistent with a little lighter draw weight, just don't have the money to spend on a bow now. Im thinking about selling some selling or trading some stuff for one.  

Im seriously considering not picking up my compound or rifle this year, really want to get a deer with traditional equipment.  Once I do I probably won't ever look back.

Offline Fletcher

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Re: arrow question
« Reply #7 on: June 01, 2013, 11:42:00 AM »
One thing to understand: when it comes to shooting well and accuracy, the arrow is much more important than the bow.  Any bow will shoot well with a well matched and made arrow and no bow will shoot well without one.  Trying to shoot with a wrong arrow is a sure recipe for frustration.

A lower poundage bow with a deep cut shelf may tune closer to the arrows you have, but whatever the case, they will have to be tuned.  I would recommend buying a good used recurve or hybrid and save some money for the right arrows.
Good judgement comes from experience.  Experience comes from bad judgement.

"The next best thing to playing and winning is playing and losing."

"An archer doesn't have to be a bowhunter, but a bowhunter should be an archer."

Offline turdyptbuck

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Re: arrow question
« Reply #8 on: June 01, 2013, 12:04:00 PM »
Thanks for all the advice! Its going to be a long fun process!

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