Fletching and bows?

[greenfish13]

Hello,

I originally posted this thread in another section of this website and was told to come here instead, so if you've seen this topic before that's why.
I shoot a 60lb longbow. Because I am learning to be accurate with the bow I am starting off with using carbon and aluminum arrows despite their god awfully high prices. I don't really have the materials available to make my own for now. Any way I am bidding on some arrows from e bay and contacted the seller asking if the arrows would shoot alright from a longbow. In his reply he said that I should be using feathers not vanes. Does it matter what kind of fletching material is shot from a long bow? Why? I can't seem to see anything wrong with using vanes on a long bow, but I guess I haven't been shooting long enough to make those assertions.

Off subject, but on a different bow I have that doesn’t have an arrow rest my shooting hand gets cut from the vanes as the arrow is shot and the vanes pass over my bow hand. I hope that terminology is exact. Is this normal, or should I be wearing gloves to stop the cutting or will the cut callus over? Alright thanks!

On a side note I realize that I mentioned another bueiness's name and hope that no one thinks I am advertising for them, I really had no idea how else to explain my question, my mistake if you think otherwise.

[ishoot4thrills]

You should use feather fletchings because they are more forgiving and tend to collapse as the arrow goes around the side-plate of the bow. In other words, feathers are better for arrow flight because they have less contact with the bow during the shot.

[Rob DiStefano]

it sounds like you're a relative newbie to trad archery?  and you're starting off with a 60# holding weight trad bow?

what is your draw length?

as mentioned above, use ONLY feather fletching.  DO NOT use plastic or mylar vanes.

it is an advantage for newbies to use carbon arrows - they're more durable, last longer, stay lots straighter than aluminium or wood arrows.  money very well spent.

[greenfish13]

Thank you for the help, doesn't seem like you can find that info from an internet search. Any way I have been shooting on and off for the past few years without doing much research into the hobby. I have made a few bows in the past as well and tried making arrows, but that didn't go as hoped for. When I started researching how to make arrows I was overwhelmed at all that needs to go into making an arrow from spine testing to fletching.

Ishootforthrills, Why don't you want the arrows to have contact with the bow? Does that create more noise?

Rob, a friend gave me the 60# bow a few years ago. My draw length is 29 inches.
I also have a 50# bow I made, but it's shoots very slowly. I am working on another bow, but have to actually start tillering it, just haven't gotten that far yet. Ok thanks for the input I apprecriate the help.

[ChuckC]

Lots to learn.  Stick around here and the learning curve will be steep.  

I suggest you get a book on the subject.  There are many around, one I read and like that is perfect for newer folks is The Traditional Bowhunters Handbook, written by TJ Conrads, who by the way puts out Traditional Bowhunter magazine.  It is a good start.  

Also, check out this site's How to section.  Lots of build alongs etc to see and learn from.

You can use vanes with any bow,  however. . . they really are not so great on recurves or longbows that are shot off the shelf.  They are not as flexible as feathers and so are not as forgiving when they make contact with the bow riser.  As above,  I recommend you use feathers in that case, likely three fletch 5" feathers to start.  

When you release the arrow, it bends and squirms as it travels forward and the feathers WILL touch it, no matter what.  If the feathers are stiff (as most vanes are), they could cause a disruption in the flight and make accuracy suffer as well as mask other flight issues.

Try to find someone nearby that has some experience in setting up a bow and building / tuning arrows.  That would help a lot cause for every question we answer, you will develope ten more.  

As Rob stated above, 60# is a lot of weight for a new shooter.  Not saying you can't do it, but generally, that is a lot to learn on and you are not likely doing yourself a favor learning shooting technique with that one.  As low as 40-45 is loads better for that task.

In the mean time. .  keep asking.

ChuckC

[greenfish13]

Hi ChuckC,

For now I have to use my current setup, the arrows I have and the 60 pound bow. I could make a 45# bow, but I would still need to acquire the arrows, so it doesn't make sense to go out and get more. I just bought 24 arrows from the internet all spined for the 60 lb bow. Not to inclined to return them. Living in Hawaii, there is very little archery. There is hunting, but it is mostly rifle and compound bow shooting here. I am self taught from limited experiences and what I read on the internet.

Now about feathers, can I just go to the art store and buy turkey feathers that are died various colors, or do they need to be untreated? When I made arrows this was where I got my fletching from and it seemed to work alright. Thank you for the help!

[LostNation_Larry]

Greenfish, I don't know how many trad archers there are in Hawaii but I've received several order from the aloha state so you are not alone.  
I don't know what feathers the art store carries but it doesn't take any special feathers to work. You can use natural turkey feather straight from the bird or you can used bleached, cut and dyed feathers from a vendor  If you purchase from the art store you probably will not be able to ask for right or left wing and you will get better flight stablization if you use all the same wing and if you match helical to wing  (right helical with right wing, left helical with left wing).

[Rob DiStefano]

no matter how strong you think you are, yer "overbowed" for a newbie.  a 29" draw with a bow rated 60# @ 28" will mean yer holding over 60#.  you simply can't learn good archery form when yer overbowed.  

i suggest dropping down to 40 or 45 pounds holding weight at your 29" draw length.  archery is about consistency and control - those things are far more important than the bow's holding weight.  

once you've got a realistic holding weight bow, the arrow is more important than the bow.  

get 1/2 dozen cheap beman 500 ics bowhunter carbon shafts and fletch them with three helical 5" feathers.  

use as much front end arrow point weight as will get the entire weight of the finished arrow to at least 10gpp total weight (that is, for a 45 pound bow, 450 grains or for a 60 pound bow, 600 grains).  you control the front end point weight by selecting the screw-in point weight, or the adapter and glue-on point weights.  you can also build the shaft with different insert weights, from the lightweight 30 grain aluminium insets that come with the shafts, or buy separate 50 or 100 grain brass inserts.  inserts are permanent, points and adaptors are easily changed out.  

the beman 500 will fly well at most any holding weight for a 29" length - it's what i use with bows from 45# to nearly 60#.  

if you haven't already, read this article -  trad archery for newbies

[LookMomNoSights]

Go nuts on this site and start learning Greenfish....what everyone said is spot on.....people around here know their stuff!  And Robs point is at the foundation of it all.....you have to sort that out before you shoot ANYTHING off your bow.   I dont care if you are a power lifter with a 450 lb bench and a 700 lb deadlift.....60# draw is nothing but a distraction to an aspiring archer who is trying to nail down form!  If you cant draw to anchor and hold for several seconds WITHOUT HAVING TO HOLD YOUR BREATH, ABOUT TO GO INTO CONVULSIONS WITH THE STRAIN OF HOLDING OVER 60 LBS,  your bow is too heavy.   Dont feel bad,  I did the same thing when I was starting out.....simply didnt know any better.   Thought because I shot heavy compounds for a stint,  I could just come back to the trad bow and row weight.....I was dead wrong!  Shooting will be such a pleasure if you get rid of that extra weight....at least while learning!  Oh,  and yeah....forget about vanes!

[creekwood]

Greenfish, please listen to Mr. DiStefano. What he said cannot be overstated. And...don't do it for us, do it for yourself.  The only way that advice could be wrong is if you are built like King Kong, and if you are, then you have my apologies.  

[b.glass]

Welcome to Tradgang! I just did a search, "hunting Hawaii", and got some past threads that might direct you to some Tradgangers living there. Like Ryan and Staci. Staci was recently up top having killed a goat. They would be a great source of info. and possibly someone to shoot with.

[Flying Dutchman]

I started with a 35 lbs longbow with my draw of 29. That enabled me to get a proper form. Now, 5 years later I am shooting between the 45 and 51 lbs. So I am with Rob.