Ce150 heritage tuning

[jacobsladder]

I will be tuning my set up  this week.  But would love to hear what you all ended up with in your set up...Would only like to hear from those that either paper tune or bare shaft......they all fly like darts when u put feathers on them...lol


I'm shooting RER xr recurve ...cut to center ..12 strand fast flight...45# @ 28

what was your findings on your set ups with high performance longbows and recurve s...thanks.......I'll update u next weekend with my findings.

[Jasper2]

You didn't say what your draw length was?
I will assume close to 28", therefore, at 45# you will need a bunch of weight up front, a fairly long arrow or a combination of the two.  I have bare shafted and tuned a similar setup and ended up with around a 31" arrow and 225 grains out front.  Based on my experience with the Heritage arrows, if I were shooting high 40's to low 50's I would use the 90's but everyone is a little different.

[jacobsladder]

Draw is 28"....shooting 45 #s

[jacobsladder]

That's interesting.......I played with this same bow last year tuning...but didn't really finish completely......My arrows were 30.25 and I started with 250 up front.......I'm right handed and had the arrows showing way weak...diving hard right....from 15 to 20 yards back....I' ended up with 125 up front to get them to shoot acceptable and group with my fletched shafts....I then stepped back to 30 and they seemed to drift a tad weak........so either this bow is cut past center....or loves stiff arrows....I'm wondering if I'm getting false readings...but would guess that I would of noticed that because I moved in 25 grain increments from 250 down to 125 up front......I'm hoping to drop down to a 29" arrow.........any one else finding their bow loves a stiff arrow......and how would u  identify if you were getting a false reading....my bow shows no abnormal wear on rest or riser....I shoot a Bateman tab rh.

[Easykeeper]

I'm shooting a little more weight, have a 29"+ draw length, and like relatively heavy points, so it should be no surprise that I need a little stiffer arrow than you listed.  The thing is, what anybody else shoots is really irrelevant.  In my opinion you need to find what works for you.  Just keep working your way back with your bare shaft tuning, if you can get your bare shafts and fletched grouping together at 25-30 yards you know you have it right.

Don't cut your shafts until you have too, nothing wrong with long arrows and you can't put it back on after you cut it off.  Have a selection of point weights on hand for tuning  (both heavier and lighter than your preferred point weight if you have one).  If you find you end up with a good tune but your points are too light, then cut your shafts back a little so you can go up in point weight.  Shaft length and point weight are the key variables unless you need to go to a different spine.  You can also play with the thickness of your side plate, especially if you find your .500s are too weak.  

Start close and work your way back.  It's also good to think about it as a process that may not be completed in one day.  Tuning when you are tired can be a waste of time so think about it as a process that you work on over a few shooting sessions, each time refining what you did before.  Once you get close, don't make any big changes based on one days shooting, a little form glitch might end up looking like a tune issue when it's really just an aberration.  

Collect as many opinions as possible for a starting point and tune from there.  This is a good process to follow if you don't have this link...   acsbows.com/bareshaftplaning

[Alexander Traditional]

Here'e my experience with them. I've got a new Buffalo bow and it's 45@28. I'm pulling close to30". I've played with 145 and 125 gr field points. I put the 125 gr field tips and two brass washers on for 135 grains and they are flying good.

[Aggie1993]

Shooting a Kempf Trophy Hunter 51@28 with 10 strand 8125 and navajo puffs. I draw a tad over 28". This bow is cut past center and I have a seal skin strike plate which brings it closer back to center. It likes the CE Heritage 150 cut to 30.5" with 5" shields, crowned, 50grain brass inserts and 150grain tips. Bare shafts a little weak.

[jacobsladder]

Thanks guys ..keep the info coming!

[Magilla]

53@28 Treadway Black Forest  drawing to 28. Shooting a 30 inch heritage 250 with 200 gr heads and they are flying perfect with 5 inch parabolic and bare shaft also.
Scott

[jacobsladder]

Ttt

[Shawn Leonard]

ONe bud the XR is cut past center for sure. I have owned at least 5 XRs and several other of Kevins bows. You coud easily get away with the 90's which are near .600 spine cut to 29"s and between 150-190 up front. You could shoot a 150 left long say 30"s but you would really need a ot of point weight, I would say 325 grains would be a good starting point. Again I believe the post above shooting the 250s with 200 up front is well overspined and feathers hide a bunch. I am shooting a Caribow static tip recurve(XR is static as well) with similar performance to my Caribow. I get a perfect hole thru paper from 12-15ft. My bow is 54#s at my 28" draw and I shoot a Heritage 150 cut to 29.5"s with 190 grains of point weight. Bareshaft perfect out to as far as I can shoot accurately. Aggie is balls on with his set-up!! I really think a .600 spine cut to 29"s with anywhere from 150-175 will be perfect for you. The 150's are .487 spine and with the point weight you will need will dive like a bomb after 20 yards. I am finding a few exceptions too the rules I have developed for carbons over the years but not many and the ones I am are with bows of recent design and that I have not had a lot of opportunity to shoot much. Have fun and experiment a bit but hopefully we have given ya a good starting point. Shawn

[jacobsladder]

I've got some 75s and 1535s too.....I'll try those out!


I wonder if a tab or glove makes a difference

[Shawn Leonard]

Steve lots of things matter, a clean release, string silencers, strand count and on and on and on, advise just gets ya close unless you tell us all the variables than we get ya even closer. I just tuned some 150's to my new bow and I had it tuned and decided to cut off the catwhiskers and add two full hushpuppies. I knew it would slow the string and stiffen the arrow but I was surprised how much. I had to cut a full 3/4" all the way around each puppy to reduce the weight and the winddrag to get the arrow back in tune. So a whole bunch makes a difference. Shawn