old kodiak need arrow ideas??

[Smith.7647.J]

I recently dug a old bow out of storage and had a fellow member give it a good check over and string it for me. he has suggest i post to find out what grain of arrows to use to the rest of the group.

its a bear kodiak II 60" recurve.  Gonna use this for deer hunting this year and need some practice before upcoming season. what type and grain of arrows and broadheads will i need to get started with this bow? any ideas will be helpful. thanks.

Thanks again heartlandbowyer for checking and stringing this bow. cant wait to shot it.

how many pounds?
your draw length?
 these guys cant help you without more imfo.

[Smith.7647.J]

sorry 50 pounds with a 30 inch draw.

thanks.

[doug77]

Kodiak II ??  Does it have a compass in the handle

Got any pic's

Doug77

[Smith.7647.J]

yes it does have the compass in the handle.
 will try to post pics from my phone.

thanks.

[doug77]

I'd be real careful with that, They have been known to break at the compass.

I have one in great condition, no stress cracks at all and have shot it some.

doug77

[Smith.7647.J]

thanks i will watch out for it.

thanks.

[Mike Tomano]

I've been shooting Beman carbons out of my Kodiak Hunter (43#@28") and been nailin' em!

Best, MT

[oldbohntr]

Doug, I'm gonna argue with you a bit about that breaking thing.  I got my first one at least 30 years ago and have been shooting them off and on ever since.  I currently have 9, and the heaviest ones are 60, 59, and 57#. You can blow a tip overlay on any 50s Bear, but I've never heard of one coming apart at the compass. Not saying it can't happen though.  

Smith.7, the thing about these is they have a shallow shelf, and spining arrows is harder than one cut more towards the center of the bow.  They can be pretty finicky. Paradox is a problem. You're almost stuck with a thin arrow plate like the original leather one or you won't have much of a rest.  Calculate for the weight at your draw, and start with the idea of underspining a bit.  That may mean no carbons.  If your bow is from 50-55#, try a 1918 or 1916 aluminum. Adjust from there.  

These are really sweet shooters compared to others of that era.  However, don't be fooled.  It was a lot friendlier than the static recurves that preceded it, but it may not impress today.  It is a feather light riser that will not absorb vibration very well.  I donated a 49# one two years ago for a rotating trophy for our state auction, and the guy who won it shot a nice Buck, a bear, a turkey, and a raccoon with it and brought it to the next banquet saying, I didn't really like how it shot!  (He's a good hunter and good for him....but the bow must have been a part of it!)

[Blackhawk]

Bear collector Gene Hopkins has written articles on Bear bows and does mention that some breakage occured during the first few months of production.  He said the first KII's were walnut, but Bear switched to maple and problem ceased.  

I don't have first hand knowledge of this happening and I certainly put a lot of faith in Tom's posting above.  However, there is more than one report of it happening.  

This reminds me of the aluminum laminated limbs that Bear used around 1950.  There are reports of failure, but other collectors have written they have never seen it happen...and even continue to shoot their models.  

I would say my concern regarding the compass Kodiak would be drawing that 60" bow to 30", especially with a steady diet of lightweight arrows...AND if it's walnut...LOL.

[oldbohntr]

Well, that surely could be true-old Gene's a real knowledgeable guy(just ask him!) I also heard there were only 75 walnut ones made....hard to believe since I've seen maybe 8 or 10 and I've got a couple.  My walnut ones are 51 and 52#, and they seem to be quicker than the maple ones, though that is certainly just a coincidence.