Double Grind on a Double Bevel

[greenbear]

I spent this morning and last night sharpening some fresh out of the box eskimos for the upcoming season.  I set the bevel with a file at a "low" angle to raise the bur, then light strokes to knock the burr off.  I then grabbed my KME knife sharpener to hone the rest using the diamond files C-F-EF.

Of course, after I finished half a dozen, I wondered what a good double grind would be?  What would you suggest to be a good bevel for a hunting and practice head (train like you compete, kind of thing...)

[LB_hntr]

i use the ferrlue as a guide for my angle by laying the file on the ferlue at the back of the head then lift up just slightly so the file is not actually touching the ferrlue then start my stroke. this is the angle i maintain thru the whole process.
I also practice with broadheads all the time. Only time i use a feldtip is when i shoot at a friends house or at a 3d shoot.

[LB_hntr]

this post shows the video on how i maintain the angle i mentioned above.
 http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=130863

[JamesKerr]

Originally posted by LB_hntr:
i use the ferrlue as a guide for my angle by laying the file on the ferlue at the back of the head then lift up just slightly so the file is not actually touching the ferrlue then start my stroke. this is the angle i maintain thru the whole process.
I also practice with broadheads all the time. Only time i use a feldtip is when i shoot at a friends house or at a 3d shoot.

X2 plus I don't know what the angle is on a Accusharp but that is what I have been using to finish my heads recently.

[Sharpster]

I don't think Greenbear is asking  how  to sharpen but rather a bevel geometry question... right?

After filing the primary bevel at a relatively low angle, I do like to add a secondary more obtuse angle at the very cutting edge. Like file at 20, then sharpen at 25. This is known as a duplex bevel and it's got a couple of advantages.

The secondary bevel at a higher angle makes the cutting edge stronger and more durable.

Once established, a duplex bevel is also faster and easier to resharpen and/or touch up because we only need to work the very cutting edge, not the entire bevel face. It requires less stock removal which means you can sharpen many times without reducing the BHD weight.

This is a fairly common practice among knife enthusiasts who want their knives to stay as sharp as possible for as long as possible. It works the same on broadheads too.

Ron