hey bullfrog.
Ill try not to be to long winded or opinionated. But I do love to sharpen things and have been doing it for years and did a lot of studying on it in the beginning. I did a lot wood carving in the past and sharp tools are a must.
As far as knives and two bladed broad heads I sharpen the same way. Always hilt to point. I will say this now, if you like point to hilt that's fine, cause if you want a edge thats razor sharp, and learn how to get it, it want matter which way you go. If its razor sharp there will be NO TEETH, no wire edge, no burr. If you carefully slide your finger nail along the edge you shouldn't feel anything. A wire edge or burr is just unsupported metal that's wait to break off and it leaves you with a jagged edge that's not good for much.
Now for the short version of how to get there. The condition of you edge will dictate the coarseness of stone you will start with. New broad heads and ones you don't let get really dull should be ok with a medium grit Stone or diamond. And it needs to be Flat. if your serious about sharpening and will use it more than once a year, and can afford it, go with diamond, DMT. there so much faster and you use water on them no messy oil.
Assuming you know a little about sharpening, count you strokes on each side till you get a burr started. Then take a few light strokes on each side, keep the angle the same, that's probable the hardest thing to get in sharpening. Maintaining your angle, you will develop muscle memory in time. Start by just lying your broad head on the stone and feeling where the factory angle is and try to maintain that. It helps to lock you wrist and elbow and get your stroke from your shoulder.
Now with the burr still present, move to you next finer stone and repeat. I like to go to about a 1000 grit diamond stone, you can do this in about three stone if its not to dull, med.400-600 fine 800 and even finer 1000. you will maintain the burr through out all the grits. Don't try to break it off, always making your last few strokes light ones.
Now it should be pretty sharp and a lot of people will probably stop here but it can be better.
A fairly stif leather strop and some sort of compound. I don't like the alum. oxides and pastes but that's just me. I like the powder types or the solid sticks like you load a buffing wheel with. just scrape some off the stick and work it into the leather. look at a carving supply house they have it. Now back to the strop its purpose it to remove that last tiny burr and polish the edge. BUT BEWARE until you get the hang of it you will probably make it duller. What happens is the leather has some give to it where your stones dosent and you will probably push down to hard or be off a little on you angel and it will polish your edge to a nice round edge! Not good. Back to the 1000 grit and get you burr back and try again.
Its really not as hard as all this sounds it just takes practice. When you can shave the hair off your arms at nothing you'll know your there and will be glad you stuck with it. It should literally be so sharp your almost scared of it.
One last thing, if your using single bevel heads leave the burr till the last stone. Do now mess with the flat side till the last stone. Then turn to that side and lie it flat on the stone and a few light strokes should do it. Some of the already sharp heads actually want be quite flat on that side and you may have to raise it ever so slightly to remove the burr on the last stone. And go very lightly on the strop.
Well you said a fanatic and I think that's me and I should quit for now.
hope this helps.
Steve