The switch to wood, any thoughts?

[trubltrubl]

medic 85

woody weights are great for tuning wood arrows...they can correct too heavy of a spine to a degree but not to light of a spine...they also make your arrow more weight forward if you like a little more penetration

three rivers sells them maybe a few other places

[trubltrubl]

good point grey goose

carbons don't give you any signifcant advantage in a hunting situation other than better penetration... thats my sole reason for using them .....some might argue more accuracy ..but if your wood arrows are matched the accuracy thing is minimal

[LimBender]

Don't have the time right now to devote to wood arrows.  Couldn't get some I bought and played with flying well enough, so stuck with carbon.

[ddauler]

For years I hunted with wood and stump shot with aluminum.

I also killed near a hundred deer before I ever even tried to bare shaft test an arrow dang internet!

Wood shafts that are spined correctly perform just as well if not better for hunting. I said already I have only been using aluminum and carbon because I am lazy. I also like the EFOC concept. Three Rivers also sells a drill bit and piece of round stock with a hole in it to drill hole in the end of woodys so you can put a nail inside to add weight I made my own. Critters don't care what we kill them with!

[Slickhead]

Im switching to wood next year (or after this season)
I think next year I will just small game hunt.

I just need to figure out the spine i'll need.
Currently my 2018s shoot like darts.
So id like to get a comparable flight.

I have carbons, aluminums, and woods.  I use wood mostly during hunting season. I find that longbows shoot wood just as well as anything else and with some shots, wood seems to have more forgiveness. The best thing I like about woods is that my small game arrows, my stump shooting arrows and my broadheads all react the same, because they are are the same. The problem with carbon is the per shaft price. I hate it when dollar signs flash in my head when I am shooting at a pheasant. I do not buy the price argument. I have wood arrows that are ten years old and more that are still in target use and in my quiver with broadheads and blunts. Not all shaft suppliers are equal, I have had shafts that were not of consistent quality. I shoot tapered cedars and do not have a problem keeping them straight or flying just as accurate as my carbons and aluminums. I have found that quite often when someone is having problems with wood shafts is that they are the wrong spine or set up wrong. While a full length carbon may fly for a person, guessing which spine wood to shoot gets complictaed when one insist on shooting arrows with a lot of extra length. When someone wants arrows from me, I need to watch them shoot. I give them arrows absolutely so longer than needed and if they have a soft creeping release, I want that fixed before I make any arrows.  For guys with Hill style bows, I see lots of guys that claim to have a 28" draw, but release at 26". If they buy arrows to match that 28" and then give a few pounds extra, their arrows will fly loggy.  Carbons are of course more consistent and stiff, but as a bow hunter only, there is an advantage to using one shaft style for all of the various hunts. I will admit that I get a guilty feeling when I lose an aluminum or carbon in the wild.  Losing a wood arrow is in the long run less litter. Wood is also warmer on the index finger and quieter in the quiver. After saying all that, tomorrow I am going out with a quiver full ancient Acme cedars and original Grizzlies.