Dryad Bow Blank Question

[Keefer]

I competed my Dryad last year and it turned out really good but I didn't cut a shelf in it I glued layers of leather on and made a shelf. My problem is when I knock my arrows they look like they are far to my left and when I shoot I have to move my bow arm right to make a center shot. I noticed that my arrows are leaving a wear mark at the edge of my shelf and strike plate at the belly of the bow and no further forward if you know what I mean. This was my very first bow I ever tillered and everone I know said the tillering looks good.My question is can I take a little more of the riser wood out where the strike plate is to get the arrow a little more center so I wouldn't hurt the strength in the riser and if so how much or close to center can I go? I haven't cut any yet and I followed Mikes and Jasons DVD but I don't remember anything about cutting the riser any towards center. I know Mike is getting ready for the Elk Trip and didn't want to bother him cause I know he is  very busy now but wondered if anyone could help me with this problem? It is the Bocote and Osage riser if that helps any. Thank You and as always God Bless! Keefers <")))><

[MOBow]

I would just shape your handle a little.  If you file a little off the back of the handle you can move the arrow into the riser getting it where it lies flat against it.  Just remove a little where the arrow touches now.  Re-check and continue until it is where you want it.  Hope that makes sense.  keith

[yleecoyote23]

Holler at Wingnut, he can let you know for sure how much, if any, he recommends you cut out the riser.....

Good luck, would love to see pics of it!  I still have one that I need to finish.....

[T-Mac]

I know that on my blank made bow that I have to kant it more then I do the center cut bows I have. I may shoot a little left, "maybe" it's hard to tell sometimes if its the bow or me. I know if i shoot it the same as the Bush Wacker or the Windtalker I will diffinitly shoot left. Once I learned to kant the bow will over to the right my shooting really improved. I wouldn't be afraid to use it at anytime, as a matter of fact I plan to.

[wingnut]

Do not cut anymore into the shelf.  I suspect that your arrows are too stiff in spine.  What are you shooting?  Try increasing your point weight and see where they shoot.

This bow is not a centershot bow so it is spine critical on the arrows.  Usually likes either the same spine as the weight or one down.

Mike

[ozarkcherrybow1]

Keefer, IMO, That is just the way a selfbow is. It can't be made to centershot, so you must make up for it with weaker spined arrows so they will paradox around the handle and go where you are looking. It takes some experimenting with different spines, arrow length, point weight, etc... You might be shooting too heavy spined arrow that is slapping against your handle instead of bending around it.
 I am sure that Mike will chime in here when he gets back, but I am sure that we are not suppose to cut into the riser to make it more center shot(I have made 3 bows from his blanks, two of which are mine and shoot often). Don't cut into it till you here from him.....Terry

[ozarkcherrybow1]

Dang, your fast Mike....  

[Keefer]

Thanks everyone including you Mike.I just dropped my rasp like a cop pulling a gun on ya! Good thing I checked my post first. I knew if I mentioned a Dryad you  would come to my rescue. I am shooting  450 grains and 28" long at back of point. I am shooting a 125 Grain field point and a Wensel Woodsman  and my bow is 43# @ 28" So basically I am done and need to really check my spine. I am shooting 50/55 spined arrows tapered last 10" and with a total weight of an average 450 plus or minus 2 grains.I did try canting  more at something like a 45 degree angle and that seemed to help more.These arrows are 23/64 tapered to 5/16 with 5" shield cut low profile left wing and I am right handed if that makes a difference.After I sanded like Jason illastrated on the DVD with sanding cloth then that is it and no need to cut into the riser correct? I competed it last Oct. Finish and all so I will try some different spined arrows and check my nocking point. Is there a spot you recommend for bracing them? Thanks to all of you and Mike & Jason You two are good Folk and Jason the word you were trying to pronounce was cementree on the Dvd wasn't it? I crack up every time I watch it . God Bless and have a safe hunt! Keefers  <")))><

[hawksnest]

I shoot a 43# Dryad Hunter, and when I draw, it looks like I will shoot 2 feet to the left at 25 yards.  I just draw and shoot, and it shoots right where I look.  I shoot Sitka spruce wood, one spine weight below the chart. The bow shoots right where all my other bows shoot, even the ones cut to center. Drop your spine down one bracket, or add 25-40 grains to your points and try it. Bill G.

[Keefer]

Thanks Bill I will try that. I have quite a few odd arrows laying around and should be able to find something that works. Keefers

[ozarkcherrybow1]

I would drop your spine down two brackets. 40/45 spine, 29", with 145 points. If that seems too weak, either go back to 28" or drop back to the 125 points. I'm betting that your arrows will fly right where your looking and not slap your riser.....Terry

[ozarkcherrybow1]

sorry, double post....

[Shakes.602]

This Thread Should be a Permanent!! I Learned something here Tonight!!  
   Well Done Keefer!! TradGang and "The Brains & Experience" Bank It Has is Golden!!