help with arrow tune

[grump]

Need help with what to do next. I’m shooting a Bear Grizzly 36lb at my 26” draw. I can get consistent 4” group at 20yards with Eastman camo hunter 1816’s cut to 29.5 “with 4” fletches but I get an 8+ group 12” low at 5 o’clock position with the same bare shafts . I thought that I should be able to get the bare shafts to group more in with the fletched arrows.  I’ve been told to be happy with my 4” group and not to worry about the bare shafts. I’ve only just started shooting last year. Any guidance would be much appreciated.

[BAK]

Work with the height of you nock point some.   Shouldn't be that low.

[Looper]

You definitely want the two groups to be in the same spot. You won't get good broadhead flight if they don't.

First work on your elevation. If you don't already, use two nock sets, one above, and one below the arrow. This prevents the arrow from sliding down the string upon release, which really messes with tuning.

Go to this website:  http://www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html  for details.

[Brianlocal3]

IF you plan on hunting with this setup, screw in the broadhead you want to use and shoot it. If it hits where you want , your done and keep up those 4" groups.
IF you are NOT hunting with this set, then YOU ARE DONE. Keep on shooting

[Caughtandhobble]

Lower your nock point a hair if the double string nocks do not work. I'm betting the double string nocks will line you out, you're very close to where you want to be.

[grump]

Thanks all. I lowered my nock a tad and added a second nock. My groups are both close to 4" except bare shafts are about 3" right and level with with fletched shafts. Any other tweeks I can try?

[katman]

Lower brace height and/or build out strike plate and/or decrease point weight,  all stiffen arrow.

[Looper]

You're shooting at 20 yds, correct?  Can you see the bareshafts flying slightly point right?

Don't base your assessment on one or two shots. In reality, shooting a dozen of each will give you a pretty clear picture of what your tune actually is. Just use one arrow of each and take your time. For even clearer results move back to 25 or even 30 yards.

For reference, to move your impact point to the left (for right-handed) you can:

1. Shorten the arrow. Go slow with this one. I've found 1" of shaft will move the impact point around 6" at 20 yards. Remember to leave yourself 1" of extra shaft to give yourself clearance for your broad head. You don't want your broadhead hitting the riser or your finger.

2. Reduce point weight. 50 grains of point weight will move your impact point around 6" at 20 yards.

3. Lower your brace height. I don't usually mess with this during the tuning stage. When I set my bow up initially, I like to find the quietest brace height and leave it there. If you do adjust it, a little goes a long way. Don't go crazy and add twenty twists. Usually 3 or 4 twists is enough to move your impact point a couple of inches at 20 yards.

4. Add thickness to your side plate. This is one of the easiest ways to move your impact point. Sliding a toothpick in behind the side plate is an easy way to accomplish this. There's no set measurement on how much is enough, but, like the brace height adjustment, a little goes a long way.

5. Finally, adding weight to the rear of a shaft effectively stiffens it. A cap wrap and feathers can stiffen the shaft enough to account for an inch or two at 20 yards. The best way to test that is to shoot your broad heads (only on fletched arrows) and see how they hit. A word of caution; shoot your broad heads one arrow at a time; don't shoot a group of them. You're highly likely to damage your arrows. But do make sure you shoot all of your broad heads to verify everything is good to go.

Again, don't base your decisions on 1 or 2 or even 3 shots.