Sharpening Simmons Interceptors

[bunyan]

My new 150 Gr Simmons Interceptors, wheelie sharpener, and half round file just arrived (thank you Mr LaClair!).  So what is the best wat to go about sharpening them?  More particularly what's the best way to use a half round file?  I was under the impression that the file was to touch up after using the wheelie sharpener, but the courseness of the file now leads me to believe that I should go with the file THEN touch up with the wheelie.  Thoughts?  Impressions?  Ideas?  I've got a half dozen new broadheads I'd rather sharpen right the first time instead of having to redo because I'm sharpening impaired!

[Glenn Carl]

Bunyan, I am watching this thread, I just emailed the people @ Simmons with the exact same question. I will let you know what they tell me. Glenn

[PastorSteveHill]

I have the wheelie and I think it is ok, but I'd use the file first.   For me the wheelie didn't do what it did for everyone else....

[AMB]

Spend the money for the steel master sharpener that he sells.

AMB

[waterone]

Well, you can spend a LOT of time trying to find a good way to sharpen the Simmons heads, but you've already got the best sharpening tool.

The best system for me is a file to just make sure the head has no nicks, then sharpen with the wheelie sharpener.  If you want a razor edge, then use a single crock stick. In your field kit, carry the crock stick (to get a finer edge), but really isn't absolutley necessary, just to make sure the edges are sharp.

BTW, check this thread out -  Topic: Simmons "Washer Sharpener"  Topic: Simmons "Washer Sharpener"  - July 2006  

Also try a search for Simmos, and sharpen, I just did and got 59 hits.

[Gary Logsdon]

The Steel Master Sharpener will solve all of your problems.  I've used Interceptors for many years, in fact, Jerry Simmons gave me a prototype of the the sharpener in bear camp in the early 90s. I quickly became a believer! Mount the new heads in the clamp and use the two ceramic rods along the concave edges at the predetermined angle (slots).  It will pop hair in no time.  Give special attention to the rear "ears" of the head where the serious cutting is done on an animal.  The half-round file that comes with the sharpener is for those times when the edge becomes nicked or turned.  If that happens, file the edge on one side until you can feel a burr opposite, then begin the process of alternate strokes, using lighter pressure until the burr is removed on both sides.  Use the rods to finish.

[bunyan]

Thanks guys.  After playing around with the wheelie sharpener and some old olive bear razorheads last night I came to a few conclusions.  The razorheads are ones I've tried to get sharp with files and whetstones without any luck.  But the wheelie has them shaving sharp now!  I think the key is one, mounting them on the arrow (or some other handle).  This allows me to put more pressure on as I run the head through the sharpener.  I'm not bearing down extremely hard, but putting steady, moderate pressure on the head as I use the sharpener.  I also noticed some fine metal shavings collecting on the base of the wheelie.  I think this is a good sign and shows that its putting on the edge.  A crock or leather strop will probably have these hair popping sharp in the future.  In the mean time I'll be fiddling with the inserts to mount my interceptors on some aluminum arrows and once I do I'll give them a go with the wheelie sharpener.  Now that I've tinkered around with it I think it won't be to difficult!

[olddogrib]

The wheelie is just a stand-alone quick way to sharpen and when I use it, I still touch up with the ceramic rods on the Steel master. If you search there's a thread on here some where explaining the magic angle (point angled down as opposed to horizontal, if I recall) The radiused file is for when they get really dull.  If you get the Steelmaster sharpener it instructs you turn the clamp 90 deg. and use the side of the base as a file stop. This is correct in theory because you are resetting the bevel by removing metal at a sharper angle than you will be touching up with diamond or ceramic rods.  But in my opinion, this is nowhere near as easy or precise as using the rods in the pre-drilled pilot holes.  That's a breeze and it's all you need to begin with, as they come with a fairly sharp, albeit rough edge.  I welded a guide rod on the end of the file and will use a Lansky clamp when I need to reset the angle, but I haven't tried it yet.

[Longbowwally]

I agree with Gary that the Steel Master is the best sharpening system for these heads.  New broadheads come with a burr on them, and you only need to use the ceramic rods to ge them scary sharp. About the only time I need to use the file is if they end up in the dirt, then I use it to get the burred edge back and then use the ceramic rods. I do file both sides of the broadhead until I get a good burr, but may try Gary's method on that in the future....