Spine Calculators vs Real World Shooting

[Mud_Slide_Slim]

Friend, that is quite interesting.  I have been shooting 300grn field points as I wanted a heavy FOC and they did ok.  When I bare shafted that setup those arrows really kicked off the shelf and shot very low...it is amazing how much the fletching works to stabilize an arrow!  I could probably get away with heavier points and am considering playing around with 4x5" fletching setup as well...the variables become endless!  Did you ever try bare shaft tuning your above-mentioned setups?  I am curious how those flew...

[Easykeeper]

Calculators are great to get you in the ballpark, but in my experience you need to tune from there unless you get lucky.  Worth it though unless you have a lot of different arrows to play with since it saves time and money by getting you close before you start the tuning process.  I would never trust a calculator to produce a perfect setup right out of the gate, too many shooter variables involved.

[Friend]

Mud_Slide_Slim......

All were bareshaft tuned from 3 to 40 yards

BH's tuned from 3 to 40 yards...

Often times, forego the bareshaft tuning and just tune arrows with BH's.

Typically, when I bareshaft tune beyond 30 yards, the BH tipped shafts require no adjustment. If there is a little left or right consistent marking, only slight adjustment to the brace will dial it in. My bare shafting then, is even better than what I could achieve on my own.

Have paper tune verified on three different set-ups and all shot bullet holes.

Please attempt to keep in mind that the beauty of the traditional way is its quite individualistic nature. My results should not be taken as a given to be universally experienced by others.

[Rob DiStefano]

Originally posted by Mud_Slide_Slim:
Hello Gang!  First, let me say how much I enjoy this forum and the way everyone shares their knowledge.  I have lurked for quite a while; absorbing as much info as I can and have learned quite a bit...and I thank you.  I am trying to grasp how arrow spine works and have been playing around with a spine calculator.  I guess my question is how do you shoot heavier heads and keep everything spined correctly or are most of you not too concerned with what the calculator says?

For example..I am shooting a Bear AuSable, 64", 60# @ 28" and I draw 30".  I am shooting Heritage 250 cut to 31", 4x4 feathers and standard inserts with a 16 strand D97 flemish twist string.  With this setup the calculator suggests a 125gr point.  Which fly great, but what if I want a heavier point with more FOC?  Do I need a new arrow setup?  

I have tried heavier points which makes the bow quieter, but I can see where the arrow leaves the bow with a bit of fish tailing. I'd like a heavier FOC with arrows that fly like darts...suggestions are welcome.  Thanks.

welcome to trad gang.

the static and dynamic spine values for carbon shafting are vastly different, unlike alums or woods.  carbon spine charts are static readings, and there's a reason why unlike all other shaft materials, a specific carbon shaft will have a large range of weight uses specified ... take even that with a few grains of salt.  most carbon static spine ratings are too stiff for how they will perform dynamically.  

LOTS hasta do with YOU, the archer, too, and how you shoot.

i don't use nor like "spine calculators".  there are more than a few factors they can never take into consideration, and can lead you far astray from where you should be headed.

good luck.

[Mud_Slide_Slim]

Ok...So the calculator is a good starting point but I will have to do my own testing to see what is really going on.  Got it.  I suppose that's what the Personal Form part of the calculator comes into play...I didn't understand what it was asking for and just left it at zero.  I am really interested in learning more on bare shaft tuning.  At this point, I can't imagine shooting bullet holes with bare shafts at 30 yards...let alone 3!  I have more playing around to do, but that is part of the fun!
Thanks again...

Bill-