Wanna try woodies. I wanna make 'em. Few questions.

[kagross]

I have a 59 Bear Alaskan, and I wanna roll my own woodies for it, and if I get good enough with it, try it out on whitetails.  It's 48#@28", but I pull 26", or just a hair under.  I checked it on a scale at 26", and it's 40lbs at 26".  It is not cut to center (for those not familiar with the bow).  Looking on the 3 Rivers website, I see POC shafts at 35-40 and 40-45 spine.  Which should I go with?  

I'm open to other suggestions for a good whitetail arrow (wood) setup for this bow.  Thanks for any help.

[kill shot]

45-50 leave them long and trim them back a little at a time until they fly good. start at 28" and cut back about 1/4" at a time. It also depends on the tip weight, length of fletching and length of the tip.

[kagross]

Originally posted by kill shot:
45-50 leave them long and trim them back a little at a time until they fly good. start at 28" and cut back about 1/4" at a time. It also depends on the tip weight, length of fletching and length of the tip.

Really?  That stiff, even if I'm only pulling 40lbs?  I know I could go with a real heavy point, but the charts show using even 35-40 shafts at 28".

[kill shot]

Maybe but not definetly, The back of the point should extend beyond the shelf. But then again thats how I like them to be. Then again at 26" draw you might want the 40-45 but 35-40 sounds light to me. It still matters a lot on the weight of the head. And length of the head. I use 150 grain broadheads but I need to add weight to my 150 grain field points.

[slowbowjoe]

How close to center IS it cut? Looks at least close, from the photos I searched. And do you know how long you want your finished arrows? Do you have a point weight in mind?

Seems like you might end up right around 40#, assuming 125 grn. point, and 28" or so BOP. Just a modest guesstimate here, others more knowledgeable will be along.

I, personally, wouldn't take the chart's results as the last word. lot's of variables. Might also consider a test kit, of at least both those spines. I'd also talk with a well regarded  fletcher (sponsors here) or supplier about what should work, when you order.
 the shafts.
Just my .02 cents.

[kill shot]

slowbowjoe is right, I didn't consider not cut on or past center shelf. Also brace height and amount of string silencers make a different. Lots of stuff the charts don't consider.

[Orion]

40-45# shafts cut to 27 inches BOP should work just fine.

[kagross]

Thanks for the replies so far.
I do not care what the finished arrow length is going to be.  Since I can cut quite a bit of length, I figured I have a lot of flexibility with a lighter spine, and if I go a little too stiff with length, I can add point weight.  Or would it be better to start with a stiffer shaft, leave it long and just add point weight to tune? This would be a heavier arrow, which may be the better route for noise and penetration, unless I run out of point weight options and am still too stiff.

 

Originally posted by Orion:
40-45# shafts cut to 27 inches BOP should work just fine.

What point weight would you use?

[slowbowjoe]

With 40/45's, I'd start with 125grn points, and you could bump up to 145 if needed or wanted. Woodies generally don't go with very heavyweight points, like carbons often do. I don't imagine you'd want to go more than maybe 160, MAX, with that length and poundage. 125's give you some room to play around.

[Lone Ranger]

leave em long, go with one size higher spine than your thinking. Add weight up front to get them to fly right. fine tune by cutting the shaft.

L.R

[mike g]

First pick out who your going to get the shafts from....
    Maybe Surewood Shafts or one of our many vendors....
    Tell them your set up and they will tell you what you want....
    When I shot woodies with my Longbow that's what I did....

[58WINTERS]

Call the boys at Surewood they will set you up correctly
58

[Bjorn]

The '59 Alaskan is R/L and cut 1/8 before center-like a longbow- you can make either suggested spine group work if they are weak cut them short if they are stiff leave them long. I would err on the stiff side and leave them long 40/45 should work very well.

[kagross]

Thanks guys.  Another question.  Given the same spine weight, would it be better to use 5/16" over 11/32" since it would get me closer (a smidge) to center shot?  I know it's a small thing.  Any advantage or disadvantage to either a thinner or thicker shaft?

[steadman]

Give Steve at surewood shafts a call. He can answer all your questions and you'll be getting the best wood shafts available!

[kagross]

Originally posted by steadman:
Give Steve at surewood shafts a call. He can answer all your questions and you'll be getting the best wood shafts available!

Just looked at the site, I'll be sure to do that.  Thanks.
What is the advantage of a tapered shaft?  I assume FOC, but how does it affect spine/tune?