Tuning woodies by cutting, a few basic questions.

[kagross]

So, I'm building my first set of woodies.  The bow is a '58 Bear Alaskan 48#@28", but I only pull 26" (40lbs @ 26" on a scale, although I adjusted the brace from 5-3/4" to 7-3/4", so that might be off a bit (any idea what it might be now?)).  The learning process has been interesting so far.  I got Wapiti tapered 40/45 POC shafts from Braveheart.  Straightened them (quite a few were really good from the start).  I stained them pecan, and 2 coats of poly. I've got the nocks on, and I'm fletching them up now.  I'm gonna start them around 29" (I draw 26") and shoot bareshaft and fletched and go from there.  Now, if I'm weak, and I need to cut (or is buying heavier points a better way to go), do I heat the points to get the hot melt to loosen, and then what?  cut where BOP was, re-taper and reapply glue, or can I cut less off, and re-taper (will residual glue ruin my taper-tool?).

Also, the Bohning classic nocks are too loose for my string, but the nocks on my carbons fit fine.  I guess I can just wrap dental floss around the string to match the nock, but then I couldn't shoot the other arrows.  Not a big deal, but just thinkin.

[JRY309]

When I use to tune wood arrows,after you heat and take the point off I scraped off the glue with a knife.I have a Woodchuck and it would gum up the sanding disc quickly and not keep give me fast and accurate grinds.I can only imagine it would gum up your taper tool too and make it difficult to make accurate tapers.What I did also to my glue-on points was to take a NPT 1/16-27 pipe tap and tap some threads into the points.Gives them some teeth to hold on.And I find Ferr-l-lite not as good as a white colored hot melt stick or like Saunders hot melt.Ferr-l-lite would hold good but get too brittle.Bohning Classic nocks do have a fairly large throat.I used them years ago on my wood arrows when I shot Dacron strings.But I switched to a nock that was closer to my carbon nocks on throat size.I like American/BJ nocks for my arrows that use glue-on nocks now.

[bamboo]

if you are weak you will need lighter points or cut

[Dave Lay]

doing this this morning myself.... when im cutting to tune I will heat the point, pull it off then if needed re heat the glue on the taper and wipe it on a piece of paper to remove the glue then cut and re taper, but depending on what target your using you can usually just press the point on without glue so pulling on and off isn't a issue.. I usually cut 1/2 the length of the taper at a time.. going heavier points is fine but I use the same as what ever my desired broadheads are and tune to that..

[hvyhitter]

I buy my woodies to leave shafts about 3 inches over draw lenght and tune with 125 heads. Then as I shoot and break off points(usually just behind point) I go to 160 then 190 points. I get longer use out of my arrows that way............