arrow finish advice

[jmorgan41480]

got all set up with my gear for arrow building - shafts are straightened, tapered and cut to length. I have a dip tube and I would like to hear the method you guys are using for the stain/seal/crest process.
I sprayed some gloss enamel over some spar urethane and the finish cracked really bad. not allow adequate dry time?  do I need to thin the spar urethane before I dip? I also had my thin cresting lines run really bad when I tried to dip over the cresting. any and all help is much appreciated

[LBR]

I use an epoxy finish--most durable I've seen, one of the easiest and least expensive.  It's on my other computer, but you may be able to find it doing a search.

Chad

[Fletcher]

My basic steps are: stain, 2 coats of clear, crown and crest, top coat of clear.  Spar is not my preferred finish as it is formulated to cure softer which leads to target burn.  Regular quality gloss poly like Minwax or Zar is tougher, more burn resistant and handles moisture just fine.  I recommend thinning any solvent base poly 3:1 with a good quality paint thinner.  This gives a thinner coat which cures harder than a non thinned coat.  Dry time is about 6 hours per coat and sand lightly with 220 grit or green Scotchbrite between coats.  I give at least 24 hours before cresting or crown dip and scuff the clear beforehand.  

Profin is another very good arrow finish if you can get it.  Hard to find outside the pacific NW and very expensive to ship.

Experiment with different paints for cresting and crowns to see what is available that will work for you.  Rustoleum in the can works well with polyurethane, altho it takes a day to dry, and Krylon Short Cuts in the bottle crests nicely if you can find them.  Try True Value Hdwe.

[jmorgan41480]

will mineral spirits work to thin as well?

[Fletcher]

Yes.  I generally use paint thinner, but mineral spirits will work fine, too.

[Pointer]

If I'm staining then I use a pre-stain wood conditioner first..then stain, crown and crest. Finally a couple of thinned coats of minwax gloss. My backyard target is a bag so I don't worry about burn too much.

[Jack Hoyt 75]

Minwax Polyacrylic is great choice for the clear coat.  Tough but epoxy is probably harder.  They crown dip, crest, clear coat, fletch, done.  Just how I have done it and all are water based.

[MO Bow]

I use Minwax stains...1-3 coats depending on how dark I want it.

2 coats of ProFin

Crest with Crestor's Enamel

1 more coat of ProFin

If I want to use a metallic crest (gold or silver), I do that on top of the ProFin since it'll make it run.

I wait 24hours between coats.  

If I paint the cap, I use a couple coats of Rustoleum white primer spray paint and a couple coats of whatever color I decide to use.

ProFin is expensive, but it's durable as hell and a gallon will last forever.

[WESTBROOK]

MO Bow, I use same stuff as you, but I switched to an acrylic gold/silver for the very reason you mentioned, the profin wont bother it.

[MO Bow]

Yeah, I like the metallic flake look of the Testor's though.  Never had an issue with the cresting rubbing off over time, so It's not that big of a deal for me.

[Drewster]

If I'm going to stain the arrows, I do that first.....usually with Minwax stains.  Then a dipped coat of Minwax Water-based Poly, sand the raised grain, then dip #2.  Spray caps with Rustoleum, crest with Testors enamels then a top coat of Minwax Poly.  I shoot mostly bag targets too, so not concerned about burning.  The solvent based Minwax Poly is a little tougher if you are OK working with the solvents.  I work with kids a good bit and build a fair amount of kids arrows, so I stay with the water based......not as tough as ProFin, but a good finish.  The gloss is harder than the satin finishes.  No compatibility issues with this combo either.

[atatarpm]

If you want to see the wood I use Teak Oil

[JB74nola]

I am using teak oil on the set I'm doing now, I like it sofar.

[jmorgan41480]

awesome advice guys!
I just did up a half dozen with wood conditioner and hickory stain(minwax oil base)
so far so good - my next step will be to dip in a 3:1 cut of minwax poly/paint thinner.
the plan is to dip two coats(6 hours between coats) then crest with rustoleum and testors and allow 48 hours for the cresting and cap to dry. will I be okay to dip two more coats at this point without the crest running? or should I just do those over the final coat? thin bands will be gloss silver

[Fletcher]

I've had some Testors run and some not run.  I think  the solvent base runs and not the water acrylic.  Try a test stick before you dip your arrows.  

Cresting should have a coat of clear to keep from smearing.  One is enough but two won't hurt altho it may show a bit more yellowing.

[jmorgan41480]

what are your thoughts on using the same brand poly in the spray can over just the cresting?

[ncheels]

For me, the best poly coat is dipping and not spray.  Dip it in and stand it or hang it and let the excess poly drip off.  I get it from Walmart and it works well over my cresting, as long as the cresting/capping has fully dried.