Shrew Secret Society and BowBolt Owners,,,

[kawika b]

Okay Shrew owners,,,lend yer ears fer a bit. I just HAD to get that Super Shrew that Ron had put up here,,,,yes I mean HAD TO. I'd like the Shrew Crew to lend me whatever tips they can about silencer placement and braceheight/nockheight that's most used on the 56" models,,,I know it varies but just looking for a good start by averages. Arrow selection for my stubby 25" draw if there any other oompahloompah Shrew shooters out there. Finally,,,BowBolt owners,,,what kinda maintenance is suggested for the BowBolt?

[Matty]

If it helps...My 60" is
Braced 7 3/4 from grip throat to string
and My beaver fur silencers are centered @ 10.5" from tip.
it's the quietest bow I have..By far..

[JRY309]

For the bow bolt,be careful not to damage the threads when you have it taken apart.I would make a piece of rubber hose to slip over the threaded part to protect it when you have it taken down and just keep it clean.

[JC]

My 56" shrew likes 7" brace, tiny bit of bowhush around the string loop and the point where the string is close to the limb, hush puppies set at the 1/3 points on the string.

Love the bow bolt in mine, best takedown system there is in my opinion. Keep it clean and you should have no problems at all. I put a tiny (and I mean tiny) smear of string wax on just the phenolic plates that butt up against each other (not the metal). Gives it a good seal against any moisture that may try to invade that area and just enough "stick" so you have to apply a bit of effort to take it apart.

[Tim Fishell]

Ron recommends a brace height of 7-7.5 inches.  the nock height will probably be right around 3/8 inch above center (this is a good place to start).  You should be pulling right around 57#@25" on that bow if I remember it was 60#@26".  For arrows you are going to want to look into either 2216 or 2219 for aluminum, something that will handle the 75# weight class in carbon, or some 70-75# or 75-80# woodies.  Shrew bows like a heavy arrow and most people get frustrated trying to find the right arrow.  For silencers I use cat whiskers tied into the string at 9-10 inches from the limb tips and noise is not an issue.  Good luck with your new bow but be careful they are addicting (I have 3 now).  

Tim

[NoCams]

I have the Shrew Scout Recurve 58" and like JC I am at 7-7 1/4 for Brace and have beaver balls 11" down from the loops. Shooting about 3/8" above center for nock height. Also put that Eagle's Flight 4 arrow quiver on it and LOVE IT !!!

nocams

[Matty]

I agree with tim as well,  My 48# Shoots a GT 55/75 with 225 up front. doesnt do well with light arrows.  I think they are just massively efficient bows.

[NoCams]

I am shooing a CX Heritage with 250 up front, ( 50gr weight, Treeshark on aluminum adaptor ) out of my John McCullough Griffin, ( Former builder of the Shrew ), and it will about turn my deer target over. It is 60 @ 28, I get about 57 out of it with my stubby arms. Cannot wait to see what that Treeshark will do if I do my part ??? I agree that these bows like HEAVY arrows. And when you do shoot a heavy arrow, total silence !!!

nocams

[kawika b]

thanks for all the advice guys. as for the draw weight, i asked Ron to take her down a bit as i wanna shoot this bow all day. it'll be 52#@25". i also shoot 3under,,,make a difference for the nockheight? most all my bows come out at 5/8" for nockheight.

[Tim Fishell]

That being the case you can back you arrows down a little bit.  2 of my Shrew bows are 53#@28" and I just just a shade under 28".  I shoot 2216 aluminum, 65-70 woodies, and 5575 Gold Tips.  Shooting 3 under I would start with you nock point at 3/8" and adjust from there.

[wtpops]

Not to contradict anyone but on the nock point and 3under you might want to start a little bit high say 5/8 or even 3/4 and work your way down that way you know you wont be bounceing off the shelf and get a false high reading. Im at about 5/8 with my shrew and 3 under but i also draw 30"

[Roger Norris]

All of th ebrace height info is sound...tweak your bow a bit to suit you.

As far as silencers, I don't find Shrew bows critical at all...Ron recomemds rubber cat whisker types, but I have used everything...yarn, fur, rubber. Divide the string into 1/3rds...and put one silencer at eache end of the string.

[kawika b]

thanks again guys. all good stuff,,, pics of your shrews are welcome as illustrated guides  

[Tim Fishell]

This is my Osage Shrew Classic Hunter
 

Here is one of a Shrew Chameleon (it is the one strung on the bottom of the rack)
 

Here is a pic after a rabbit hunt with my Shrew Lil' Favorite
 

I dont have any pics of my Shrew Samurai yet but I will see if I can get some.

[Ron LaClair]

If you thought the Shrew design was new you're wrong. The design is thousands of years old... it's tried and true    

   

[brent d.]

awesome pic Ron.
Would you suggest one of your 60" bows for a 30+ inch drawlength?

[kawika b]

quote:Originally posted by Ron LaClair:
If you thought the Shrew design was new you're wrong. The design is thousands of years old... it's tried and true    

[**DONOTDELETE**]

I have my brace at 7.5" and I also use small pieces of work boot laces about 9" from both ends

[Ray Lyon]

Nope, that's Ron shooting back when he was a little skinnier and testing the Shrew prototype.  Ron's in goood shape for someone who's been around since cave drawings and it's good that he's finally got a bowyer that could transfer his rock wall designs into actual bows.  

My avitar shows my plain jane Samurai.  It's beautiful in a simplistic way.  It looks even better when pictured with a Shrewhaven critter.  

I like seven inch brace height on my Samurai and nock point is about 5/8 of an inch. The bow bolt is a great system.

Ray

[Red]

My 58" griffin is braced at 7 1/8 and knock is 5/8 above center shooting 3 under.