Hafting Flint Heads...HELP ?

[NoCams]

Mason was given two beautys of flint recently by a knapper in AL. He told Mason, " You do not owe me anything.... just a pic of the deer you kill with these heads". Never mounted a flint head before and want to make sure it is done right. We owe the deer that and more !!! One has a square tang only , the other has the tang with notches. Lots of questions...

1) What size arrow, 11/32 work okay ?
2) How do we spine without shooting it ? I was thinking of weighing head and spining with same weight field tip ?
3) What glue and sinew, will artificial sinew work okay ?

Okay you tradgang experts jump in here and help Mason get his first deer with stone ! Also, any and all opinions accepted on whether he is ready to shoot a deer with stone point at his draw weight of around 42# ? He is shooting a Dwyer Defiant 52# @ 28 and he is drawing about 25", or about 42#. No question about his accuracy, beats the old man like a drum, day in day out. We would wait for a 10yd or so broadside deer. He will also be carrying Muzzy Phantoms if it is a iffy shot, rather than be tempted to force a bad shot with stone.
   

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[Notso]

I attached an obsidian head to an arrow a few weeks ago. I used a box cutter to remove a portion of the center of the POC shaft. Slid the head in with a bit of epoxy to stabilize it, then used artificial sinew to lash it in place. Burned the sinew ends to prevent unraveling. No "field test" on a deer yet -but should work fine when the right shot presents itself.

[NoCams]

Mason has already made a few cane arrows and wooden ones too, thanks to Cheapshot on here. Allen has him intrigued with cane for sure ! However, Mason is a "modern caveman" and uses a dremel tool for his notches. So far these have just been target and play arrows. Now we are serious and need tips to make sure we do it right since we are talking about true hunting heads. I want details as far as how big and deep to make the notches in the shaft too if possible ?

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[TimZeigler]

Hold the head up to the end of the shaft and view it from the side.  Try to line it up so that the head is centered on the shaft and trace its shape on the shaft.  That should give you an idea of how much material need to be removed.  Use whatever means you prefer to remove material SLOWLY, you can't put it back once its gone.  Keep test fitting the head as you remove material.  Once your satisfied, use either epoxy or pitch to set the point in place.  Sinew or Artificial Sinew will work great.  Be sure if you use Sinew that you use some kind of soak like hyde glue, knox, or as I've seen Ferret do, chew it for a while to get it pliable.  Then wind it around making sure you have plenty behind the point to prevent it from splitting the shaft upon impact.  I'd seal the area as well with some tru oil, poly, or some other sealer that you might prefer.  Good luck, I hope this helps.  Make sure you post your result.  Tim

PS. Check out Ferrets page to see the above steps in pictures.  Lots of good info there.

[snakewood3]

All good points here. I do like the amber hotmelt glue...heat the point slightly before applying. Very strong ...fast and looks a bit like pitch.

[Seven]

In my experience artificial sinew is not good at all for a hunting arrow.  it stretches and loosens up a lot!  Use the real deal if you have it, if not silk thread and something like hide glue will also work.  You need the head to be as form fitted to the shaft as possible.  If the head moves at all there will be less penetration.  And penetration is the name of the game.  Tim Z has mentioned a good method of creating the initial cuts.  I like to use pitch mixed withed with powered charcoal or egg shell for my epoxy, but I'd imagine any solid epoxy would work.  

-Chad

[horatio1226]

How about tile adhesive. It bonds stone to wood very well.Try and get your tile off.
Brian

[Pat B]

The nice thing about pitch glue or hot melt glue is they can be re-heated to true up the point if needed at a later date.
  I have used sinew, art sinew and silk thread with good success. If you wrap behind the head for about an inch and tuck the tag end(like with string serving) you don't have to worry about it coming unraveled. I always add super glue to the wrapping to hold it in place and to seal it from moisture.    Pat

[Bobby Urban]

It may just be my opinion but to haft a stone point with anything unnatural is a sin.  
Use pitch and real sinew chewed and wrapped.  Sinew will shrink as it dries holding the head on well.  Make sure you get your profile as low as possible and your transition as smooth as possible, this will help with penetration.  Also, I will second or third the need for an inch or two wrap below the head on the shaft for strength.
Have Fun, Good Luck

Bob Urban

[Killdeer]

In my experience, chewed sinew gets swallowed.
Just set it in a bowl of slightly warm water, or if you have the self-control, lay it in your mouth for a bit...I mean little while. Chewing will tear up the fiber some and weaken it. I don't pound it, either. I use back sinew which is very fine. Just bend it around until the strands separate, and tease them loose with your fingers. For my first set of arrows, I used pine pitch to set them, and waterproofed the hide-glued lashings with a mix of pine pitch and deer grease. The mix has to be just right to avoid cracking in the cold or rubbing off in the field. What a pain. Next set I will use sinew, again, and superglue or poly to waterproof.

I am shooting these out of glass backed recurves and longbows, they don't have to be true to the memory of Ishi, for crying out loud. About the poundage, I don't see a problem. I was drawing about 44 pounds when I killed Ashly at 25 yards. Point put a hole in a vertebra on the back of her neck as she turned to flee. If I had known that it was 25 yards I likely would not have shot, but I didn't, and it felt right so I did. Arrow went right where I wanted it to, but the dang deer was a real quick turner! If it could pierce a vertebra, I have no doubt that it would have found her heart if she had just stood still.

After the shot:
 

Killdeer  

[Killdeer]

From the side:

 


Before waterproofing...I think I changed shafts before the hunt, too.

 

Killdeer

[JEFF B]

hey real nice killie  

[Gene Roberts]

hey jimmy,whats up?i would tell you how to mount it...if i did.hows it going??i'll see you at the next shoot!

[NoCams]

Thanks to all for the tips thus far, keep em coming !

No one has chimed in about Mason's draw weight and hunting with stone ? What is the poundage most of you shoot successfully with stone points and get good penetration ?

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[NoCams]

Oh yeah Killy,
Next project will be for Mason to build a head dress like yours !!! As much as he likes this stuff I wonder if he has some Indian in him somewhere down the line ??? I have a garage full of cedar dust, antler dust, and flint chips. Heck, he knapped a piece of old beer bottle he found behind the house today ! And no, it was not his Dad's bottle either, haha !!!    

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[Killdeer]

I mentioned the draw weight. If you are not going to read them, I might as well not post...  :(

[NoCams]

Ooops, Sorry Killy !!! I just re-read the 44lbs part. Sounds like Mason will be fine @ 42lbs if he will wait for a <15yds shot on a calm, broadside deer. Now to haft them heads on......
   

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