Arrow weight help

[Camobungadude]

Got my bow setup 26@52# now I just need to get my arrows setup. I have been told to cut them down to help stiffen up the spine. Many arrow charts show about a 500-600 grain total arrow weight. Then I have been told not to cut the arrows and leave them at full length. Maybe I am wrong but wouldn't a longer arrow increase instability at my shorter draw and draw weight? What is the best way to setup my arrows correctly? I am a DIYer so any help would be greatly appreciated.

[moebow]

CAmo,

This would be better answered in the Pow Wow section as it is not a form question.

I think you are confusing arrow SPINE (measured in inches of deflection like .500 or .600 inches) and arrow weight (measured in grains).  Shortening a shaft will increase the spine (make the arrow stiffer) and make the weight less.  I think you could start with a .500 spine and then adjust AFTER you shoot for a while.

Arne

[Terry Green]

To PowWow

[JimB]

http://www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html

[reddogge]

Camo,
There are two schools of thought on arrow length. One school likes to cut them to their draw length with maybe an extra 1/2" added for safety and tune them by point weight and strike plate adjustment and the other group starts full length and cuts them a little at a time to tune them and they don't really care how long the arrow is as long as it shoot well.

I prefer a longer arrow myself(30.5" or 30" for a 27" draw because I use it partially in aiming. Another thing people consider in choosing spines and arrow lengths is what broadhead weight you want to use so you tune for that weight up front. So there are many ways to skin this cat and arrive at a good shooting arrow.

The link JimB gave you is a good primer on arrow tuning so read up on that first before buying a bunch of shafts.

[mahantango]

What spine shafts are you trying to tune to your bow? If you are drawing 52# at your 26" draw length, I'm thinking you're going to need .600 spine shafts and a selection of points and inserts. Remember, carbons get stiff real quick when you start cutting, that's why most suggest  starting with them full-length. For example, I shoot .500 full length with 225gr. up front out of most of my 55# at 27" draw bows.

[Camobungadude]

I have been shooting GT Exhibition Hunters with 5" feathers at 2 degree offset. 55/75 400 spine. I used to shoot compound but now shooting traditional the setup is a little different. I shot the exhibitions with compound but a different spine and draw weight. I was told I needed a stiffer spine and cutting them down would help with that but on consequence lighten my arrow but I think I might have made them too stiff and not enough weight. Am I right or in left field? I was going to get a new set of arrows but I want to make sure it is a wise investment and not wasting pennies.

[Prairie Drifter]

I think those are to stiff to begin with. I also draw 26" and have bows from 38 to 56 lbs. The only bows I can use .400 spine on are bows that are cut 3/16" to 1/4" past center, over 50lbs and I still I have to use 200grs or more for points to get them to tune .

If your bow isn't cut past center, a .500 spine should be good to get you going.

[Camobungadude]

Well thank you moebow for your input and videos. I used your rotational technique and the result  was amazing. My draw felt smoother and I was more consistent at my anchor point. I am considering .400 spine GT traditional carbon and go from there. I am basing it on what the arrow chart from GT says. My draw length and weight show .400 spine at 30 inches so I guess that I a good starting point huh? Haven't considered aluminum yet. They weigh more but are the better or worse to work with?

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Originally posted by mahantango:
What spine shafts are you trying to tune to your bow? If you are drawing 52# at your 26" draw length, I'm thinking you're going to need .600 spine shafts and a selection of points and inserts. Remember, carbons get stiff real quick when you start cutting, that's why most suggest  starting with them full-length. For example, I shoot .500 full length with 225gr. up front out of most of my 55# at 27" draw bows. [/QUOTE

I don't know what kind of bow you are shooting, but a 600 spine would probably be weak on an english long bow with no shelf cut out at all...Those things are noodles. My wife shoots a 600 spine out of her 35# bow.

The point i'm making for the originator of this post is that arrow spine is not just determined by draw weight or arrow length and tip weight, but also how far to-center or past center the riser is cut makes a huge difference. Also the performance of the bow you are shooting has a significant impact on arrow spine.

If you are shooting a 50# bow that shoots 10 gpp at 160 FPS  and your arrow spine is .500.  If your bow shoots 190 FPS with the same weight arrow you'll most likely have to jump to .400 or even .340 spine to make it work....

Each bow is different.... it would be helpful to see pictures of your bow & what make it is to get you a good starting point.

[Camobungadude]

thanks Kirkll
I shoot a custom made take down bow that has the limbs connected on the inside of the riser. I have a quiver mounted on the side that I am considering taking off to help balance the bow better. I have not chronographed it yet so I don't know the FPS. I have a 35# pound York recurve that was given to me. I have been using it to work on form and technique. It according to the charts I would use 600 with that bow. Based on what I read from ACS Bow Tuning article my arrows should be 3/4" longer than my draw length. I know it's not the Bible but my arrows are now  GT XT Expeditions 5575 400 grain cut to 27" with 125 gr field points. Total weight of arrow at 390. Too light and too stiff from what I am understanding. Was going to use 150 grain broadheads for hunting after I got my arrows tuned. Maybe I am not reading it correctly. I was under the impression that the stiffer the better. But that is probably just misunderstanding what I have been told here locally.

[Todd Cook]

I would think 400 spine would be too stiff at 26" draw unless the bow was cut past center.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

The 5575's are going to be tos stiff for ya bro. Even putting huge amounts of weight up front its not going to do it even if your bow was cut past center with arrows that short...I'n shooting 5575 out of my 55# bow at 31" and have 210 up front including brass insert. And i draw a full 30". cutting 4" off those dudes would seriously stiffen them up.

how close to center is the riser cut?

I'm thinking you may need to drop down to a 3555 or a 500 spine shaft and you'll still need to use 100 grain of brass to get them flexing enough at a shorter length... I would start out with full length shafts, put your inserts and 150 grain field points on. then bare shaft em and cut the rear of the shaft a wee bit at a time until they come out slightly weak.   It don't matter if your arrow is 3" in front of your bow.   The problem with really short arrows is you are going to stay pretty light in mass weight.  

Maybe some of the EFOC guru's can help ya out with a different set up. but i can't see using a 600 spine arrow without using weed eater cord or weight tubes in it....   hope this helps.

[Stump73]

3555

[Camobungadude]

That makes sense. I think I have been relying too much a compound setup which is different altogether. Thanks