Beman MFX Classic

[beachbowhunter]

Originally posted by Steve O:
For that batch, yep.  1/4 inch is not much for sure.  I just keep cutting them till they show slightly stiff and double check with broadheads.

I thought OL's method calls for bare shafting till they are just slightly weak?  ...I've been having trouble getting 500 Axis to bare shaft well compared to CX arrows....Maybe I should try that.

[Ray Lyon]

Katman,

I'm using the 200 grain points and standard aluminum insert supplied with the shaft, which I believe is somewhere around 15-20 grains.

I suppose for more versatility, you could use a 100 grain brass insert and a 125 grain point and be close to the 215 or so that I have up front. If you were dropping down in bow weight, you could then add a 200 grain point and weaken the spine considerably.

[njstykbow]

Standard aluminum insert is 16 gr.  Adding a 100 gr. brass insert isn't exactly like adding 100 gr. of point weight.  The brass insert is longer than the standard insert, which will slightly stiffen the shaft, and the extra point weight at the very end of the shaft will tend to weaken spine.  Go with whichever combo you want, but be very careful with cutting the bareshaft to tune.  A little goes a long way.

[Steve O]

Norb,

I start out with the point weight I want so I HAVE to start out weak and cut to stiffen.  I'm not exactly 100% sure of OL's technique, but I believe he and Bob Morrison state you need just slightly stiff to account for the fletching which will ACT to weaken the spine.  Mine fly pretty good with broadheads, but I may just be getting lucky.

[chappy]

I just recently bought some MFX's.  To tune them I've been screwing a field point in the insert and placing it in the arrow.  When retrieving the arrow from the ol' Block target I have.  I push it all the way through 'til I can take the point and insert out w/o losing it in the target.  That way I can tune with bare and fletched shafts per Adcocks method by still being able to cut the front of the shaft.

[beachbowhunter]

Steve,
I do it the same way but OL's method says to cut to stiffen until the shaft is showing slightly weaker than the fletched shafts because broadheads tend to stiffen them. Who know? I can't get these microdiameter shafts to fly well no matter what I do!  

[Seeking Trad Deer]

Are you guys who are adjusting the length to get to tune right using a high speed arrow cutter?  I don't have this type of equipment so I guess I have to find me someone who will just sell me a couple of different lengths or try to figure out the point weight for tuning.  Sure is much easier for me to tune aluminum Beachbowbender also.

[Steve O]

Mike,

You can pick one up thru Harbor Freight:

 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42307

They are often under $20

[Seeking Trad Deer]

Steve...wow...only $24 for one of these...I should have got one a long time ago.  I even have a Harbor Freight store nearby.  Does the model you show do carbon safetly?

[Seeking Trad Deer]

I shoot the Axis 500 @29 1/2 out of my 50# bow with 170 or 200 grain points.  The Beman at 400 spine would be heavier as a shaft which is what I am seeking.  I don't like that my arrows although having a decent FOC are only 450 grains.  Not sure if I could push the 400's to be weak spined enough to fly right out of my 50# bow.  My Fedora's seem to favor spine on the weak side for some reason.

[Steve O]

Seems OK to me...it is super duper high speed and I haven't noticed any fragments.  I hit them on a G5 ASD to make sure they are square.

[katman]

Ray, I was curious as to your total point weight on a 400 as I am working a 340 up on a 55# recurve, looking at maybe 350 up front, arrow may end up about 29.5-30", am getting the bare shaft flight really close before adding fletching and using OL's method and fine tuning with point weight and brace height. Got to get them very close before fletching since cuuting off the tail to stiffen won't take long before need to refletch.

From OL's site: "The most forgiving arrow to shoot will actually show a slightly weak/slightly high nock point indication. In other words, at 20 yds or more, bare shafts grouping a little low and right is perfect because fletching makes a shaft react slightly stiffer." So bare shaft slightly weak because fletching will stiffen the arrow.

[Climber]

For the best prices check out FS Discount Archery. I'd love to support 3 Rivers and KK, but FS saves me too much.

[Ray Lyon]

I'm using a 200 grain point plus the 16 grain aluminum insert, so 216 total point weight. I'm drawing 29" and have a 29.5 BOP head.

I didn't do the bare shafting thing. I just make sure broadheads and fieldpoints group at 30 yards together and call it good. All I want to see is a lazer beam streaking to the target. I guess I'm from the old school and really don't want to stress out over 25 grains of weight or 1/4" cut off the back of my arrow.

[Steve O]

"Old School"  

[Keith Karr]

I shoot the MFX 500, 29.5", 100g insert, 125g point, with a wrap and 4" fletching these arrows weigh 538g. My bow(Blacktail recurve) is pulling 53#@28.5" and my arrow flight is great. I shot thru a buck that weighted 228 lb field dressed.
They are much tougher than any other carbons I've shot.