not yet another nocking point topic...

[madmaxthc]

Hey, tradgangers,

I am just back from the range, with a few thoughts in my head I would like to share.

As mentioned in another topic, I recently changed the way I make my flemish string. I'm happy with it as brace and loops are much more stable now. As a downside though, the nocking point seemed to need tuning. I shoot one above and two under, and I used to nock at 3/8". With the new string though, bare shafts were hitting quite lower than the fletched arrows. As per manual, I moved the nock down to 2/8". Sure enough the arrows and bare shafts were impacting at the same height, but the flight was bad and noisy. Tried to move the nock to 4/8" and 5/8": the arrows were fliyng straight, but the shafts were always going too low.
I was quite discouraged, out of desperation I moved the nocking point up to ~6/8" and shafts and arrows impact now in the same place.

It may seem silly, but I was quite surprised. In every manual I read that if shafts impact too low it's because the nocking point is too high. This showed me that theory is important, but needs to be completed with hands-on experience. In the end, what's important is to make it work. Next time I'll try with broad heads.  

Well, I just wanted to share.

Happy arrows
Max

[McDave]

What you experienced really shouldn't happen with normal bare shaft testing, so we have to suspect that things are happening that aren't normal.

Common errors people make when bare shaft testing include setting the nock point too low, which causes the bare shaft to deflect off the arrow rest or strike plate, resulting in a false nock-high flight.  I suspect this is what was happening when you set your nock point abnormally low at 1/4". Another thing that can happen to split finger shooters is that they might press down on the nock with their index finger at full draw, which causes a rebound upwards when the shaft is released, again resulting in a false nock-high.   Arrows that are excessively weak or stiff for the bow can cause squirrelly results, as can many common form errors, such as torquing the string or clenching either hand.

Unless you have enough experience to detect these common problems, it would probably be best to set your nock point at 1/2", as that should give you reasonably good arrow flight, and work on perfecting your form.

[hvyhitter]

nocks may be sliping on new string.......add a bottom nock point.............ymmv

[madmaxthc]

Hi,

Thanks to both of you. I do use 2 nock points. I will try what McDave suggested, although I normally pay attention not to pinch the nock of the arrow. I'll go to the range again in a few days and see.

Regards,
Max

I shoot split finger, and every bow I own has the nocking point set at, or near, 3/4" high!

Bisch

[katman]

Listen to what your shafts are telling you, if you change something one way and it gets worse you went the wrong way.

[ChuckC]

Yup, if they are working, don't change it.

LOTS of things can affect tuning and reading is a good START, but experience trumps all.

I have seen that in many, maybe most cases, a person with a long draw needs a higher nock point.

Remember, your arrow nock has a certain thickness.  You need to have your string nocking point AT Least that high for the arrow to be traveling horizontal compared to the shelf.  Most need higher, with some nearing that 1" mark.

Two nock sets  help keep the arrow from sliding down on the string if you are drawing the string to a more severe angle (long draw, especially on a shorter bow).

ChuckC

[madmaxthc]

Hi, ChuckC,

Thank you. I haven't had time yet to go back to the range, but I do have a relatively long draw (~29.5"), shooting a 62" recurve.

I don't think I am pinching the nock or twitching the bow, but I'll shoot with a friend next time to have a second pair of eyes. We'll see how it goes  

Max

[Tim Finley]

Normally I set my nock pt. 1/2 above square, but on one of my personal bows I was having trouble with arrow flight . I ended up having the nock pt off the scale high. I finally figured out to lower my brace ht. and then went back to 1/2 above square and got perfect flight.

[Bowwild]

I shoot 3 finger under. I always start with 5/8" above horizontal. Usually this is right on but occasionally tuning indicates I have to come down to 1/2".

[nineworlds9]

I shoot split, my draw is just over 29 and I also set my nicking point a bit higher than average.  It just works.

[madmaxthc]

Hi, Everyone,

Here I am, again. I did some more testing, and those bare shafts kept hitting lower than the full arrows.
                Broadheads arrows also fly true.
I think the old strings I made were not very stable (i.e. they stretched) , thus being less efficient and transmitting less energy to the arrow; that's why I needed the 400 spine. Now they result too weak (my draw weight is ~54#). Regarding the cat whiskers, seems they were too "abundant" and slowing down my string excessively. I did check they were not moving though, and they were at the same distance from the loops. Anyway, next time I am going to test this variable, trimming ad moving them up and down till I find what works.

Thanks everybody for your suggestions,
Take care,
Max