Bear Spring Arm bow quiver noise

[Kenny Henderson]

I have a Bear spring arm (upper spring, lower mount uses screw hole in riser) I put it on my Bear Takedown and can't seem to get the "buzz" out of it. Can someone tell me how they got their quiver quiet, or is it a lost cause.

[jeff w]

Hi Kenny,
I used these (the type you have and the one with two spring arms) way back when.   I did a couple things to help quiet them down:  took out all the screws and used loc-tite on them;  and tried to dampen any metal to metal contact/vibration--such as where the spring arm may ride against the quiver framework, or where the metal framework is secured to the metal that holds the arrow gripper.  If I recall I used a thinpiece of rubber or leather to do this.

I have to be honest, as much as I love Bear bows-the spring arm quiver wasn't a favorite of mine.  In addition to the noise, I had a couple that the hoods ended up rubbing against the bow, marring the riser.  as much as I like the original look-I use a Great Northern on my Bear TD now and use the spring arm as an arrow holder for display.  Maybe someone else will chime in with some better tips that I can offer.

[vintage-bears]

They were wonderful when Bear first introduced them considering the technology.
They were simple and well made.
I use the 4 arrow model on my early TD Bears and I love it.
But, once I'm posted, I most always remove the quiver from the bow.
If you prefer the quiver on the bow, expect vibration. It just comes with them. As mentioned, there are simple fixes to reduce vibration and noise if you prefer to use them.

The 8 arrow model is very pronounced in noise and vibe.
I prefer a GN as well or a quickie quiver.

[M60gunner]

Pretty much what has been said. Those quivers were state of the art but noisy. We would use the 8 arrow quiver with 4 arrows on it. That helped besides putting foam between metal and plastic parts. Also added foam to hood. Lots of tricks but we really never were able to really quite those quivers down. I got my hands on the quiver Bear used on their first compounds. I fixed it to fit the two quiver bushings on the newer risers. The quiver has longer brackets between the hood and gripper which helps to keep the arrows from vibe rating  when you shoot.

[Hud]

Might indicate there is not enough tension. The upper arm should above the latch on the belly side and top of the latch above hinge, this puts more bend in the arm. It might help to put a small piece of leather around the arm (or rubber) where it touches the Hood. I have several of the 8 arrow models and never had a problem after doing it that way. I saw a close up of Fred Bear's and figured I give it a try. I will copy the picture on the front of Chuck Kroll's book, "Fred Bear, the biography of an outdoorsman". I will attach to an email to you, with Fred Bear BQ in the subject line.

[Gun]

The rivets holding the hood can loosen. A few drops of epoxy around them on the inside of the hood. I use a GN on mine tho. Less hassle.

[NIGEL01]

I've tryed mine on my takedown and a couple other bows because they look right on the bow, but in the end it goes back on the wall for decoration.  I do like the four arrow tape ons, I use GN straps to fasten them on.  Helps take the vibration out the old bows.  I use a side mount GN on my new TD also.

[JimB]

You can quiet the spring arm quivers.Put a small piece of mole skin on any frame wires that touch each other.Put blue Loctite on all screws and tighten them.The two aluminum plates that attach the gripper to the wire frame can vibrate or resonate so fill the gap between the two plates with silicone.