ok this is super super easy so don't over think this.
First and foremost if you can slide your points on over the shaft without a taper you're too small of shaft or too big of point LOL!
All joking aside if you cant slide it on this will work regardless, though I'd consider finding a different supplier of shafting imho. It will effect the thickness of the lip you're leaving at the fat end of your taper.
The directions are simple. I don't do youtube so bear with me.
Set your disc sander up to get the angle right FIRST! I have a few old shafts laying around that have the tapers that run to nothing on the fat end that are right. I use them for setting up to get close. Adj the motor as normal and than lock it tight.
I prefer a full length taper, fill that point up! We're dealing with wood so do the best you can and hope its good enough, this isn't machinist work just do the best you can.
Once you get the angle right for the taper you will NOT change this angle again. Repeat you will NOT loosen the bolt on the rear of the motor.
Now for the fun part. You're adjusting the thickness of the taper to create the shoulder.
Make sure your arrows are as straight as possible!
On your woodchuck, there's a set screw that holds the disc onto the shaft of the motor.
DISCLAIMER! before you do anything here, really ask yourself if you want this headache...I can rest assured its worth it...but its a royal pain sometimes to hit the mark right. If you run both 11/32 and 23/64ths you really want TWO woodchucks...if not you can set it and forget it. I kicked myself everytime I'd get an order for a different diameter shaft than my WC was set up for.
Loosen the set screw now move the disc towards the shaft just a skosh..and I mean a gnats hair is almost too much. You're creating an ever so slight lip on the fat end. That's it your done walk away!
One thing for consistent tapers..if you don't have a rubber cleaning stick for the disc, beg borrow or steal the 10 bucks and go buy one...otherwise you'll find as the paper clogs you'll get inconsistent tapers over all and this hole process will go to heck in a handbasket. You wont get consistent tapers and this hole thing wont work!
If you do this right you'll have a ring cut all the way around the shaft at the fat end of the taper on the arrow. If you can grind good tapers this ring will be perfect. I leave my tapers just a touch short so the point doesn't bottom out before the lip of the head going on the shaft is pushed up onto this ring. I like things to come snug when I push the points onto the shoulder and try to get my length (1 3/16ish fits both my 23/64 pdp and zwickey eskimo's perfectly) to just about bottom out.
If you cut this lip too far into the shaft...this is where the fun begins, you'll slip the point on and off loosey goosey...you do NOT want this! This is where the 'dang it Dan' remarks will come in, late at night LOL! It takes some tweaking here and its a VERY fine movement with the disc. If you had a magnetic micrometer you'll save some hair. I've too lazy to use one (and yes I own one LOL! If you don't change shaft sizes you shouldn't have to ever set this again. there's a lot of jigs or tools to measure things like this. Find one or make one it will save you a crazy amount of headaches if you do different diameter shafts, or just setting up from time to time if you need too. Different makes of sand paper will be different thickness's. A jig will give you your starting point. I don't have one... I enjoy the agony of it all LOL. One cough and you're really hosed...this is where a jig would come into play.
Something to ponder about tapers and points going on perfectly straight. Stick the point on if you're off you're going to wobble, this shoulder will NOT correct this flaw. If you cant get good tapers now DO NOT try this until you figure it out. This method WILL fix some of your issues but what you'll find is, your tapers off slightly and no matter what happens you'll have a point that wobbles. It wants to grind one side higher than the other. A lot of this is operator error as much as shaft problems imho. I find if I don't hold the shaft down tight (my fingers are sore after I'm done with a dozen), I'll get these high/low spots or if a shaft is off or I'm grabbing and torqing same deal. If you error fat on the taper thickness you can sometimes correct the ones that are slightly off by pushing the shaft in on the high spots just a smidge. Its a feel game here, there is no measurements. You'll get what I'm talking about after doing a number of shafts.
Some arrows have a very very slow wobble to them and you'll see it in the head as well. The points rotating on the axis of the shaft which is what you want. You wont get any better on the taper side. If the shaft is straight this thing is going to spin like a top!
Look close at the junction of the point and shaft and see if the shafts doing the wobbling or is it the point taper doing the wobbling. (spin it on stand not on the point end you'll save some false negative headaches here) Another thing to consider is the point of whatever you have on it. If there's a burr you're going to get a false negative if you spin it on a table point down...or if you ground your broadheads off a few degrees when sharpening, same deal. I use my cresting jig to check shafts if the table shows they are off to see where I messed up or IF I messed up. generally I put the 4 or 5 that are off in the practice head group and the perfect ones go to the bh group
This shoulder will clean up the point end of your arrows and make those heads spin perfectly true the MAJORITY of the time....its not 100% again we're playing with wood. I have found I get 6-8 shafts that spin like tops...and a few that no matter what I do still have a hippy wobble to them.
Keep the disc clean and you'll get a consistent taper thickness which will give you a good point to taper fit at the shoulder like I like. If you're too fat run the cleaning eraser first before making ANY adjustments! Its the same with sand paper on the disc..if its worn, once you replace it, your points will be TOO loose. start fresh with everything...once they get too loose after running the eraser you'll know its time to change the disc material.
I hope I didn't loose ya...I'm terrible at writing anything simply LOL
A buddy of mine taught me this method years ago...what I didn't realize is I have a shaft with no point on it and sure enough the taper was shoulder. I had no idea of the significance of this shoulder as I like to call it. If you know who John Dodge was it was one of his shafts. It sits as a memento of a person I really wish I had the chance to meet on my spine tester when my testers not in use.
Now if I could only find a good looking simple to build bow rack to hang some bows........
Topic: Woodchuck taper tool help (Read 427 times)
