Softer spined arrow

[Bladepeek]

Just received a "new to me" JD Berry Morning Mist; 66", 43#@27" and I'm drawing it 28", so it measures 46.7# on my scale.

I have some GT1535s that shoot very nicely with 125gr up front out of my 44 - 47# r/d longbows and 'curves.

This bow is cut roughly 1/4" - maybe slightly more with the beaver tail plate - from center. If I load that 30" 1535 up with 111 gr insert/weights and a 200 gr point I can finally get it to bare-shaft properly and they stack well together fletched or bare shaft. With 311 gr up front, though, it drops like a rock at even 20 yds.

1716's, even with 200 gr points and std insert are stiff as a board.

What's my next step down the spine ladder after 1535s?

And, before someone beats me to it, I'll add that I do plan to shoot woodies with this ASL bow. I just don't want to mess with them at this point. Water leak in the basement leaves me with little time.

[Hermon]

Carbon Xpress Predator II come in 700 and 800 spine.  I'm sure there are others too.

For a 28"+ arrow drawn to 28" an 1816 should work.  If you have 1716s with 200 up front, that should be under spined for that set up.  I cannot help but think there is something else involved.  Like tight nocks and/or low brace height, nocking point too high.  It should not be that tough.  Although I have seen more Hill style bows being shot with arrows way over spine than under spine.  Any arrow that comes in at 40 to 45 pound spine, depending on the point weight, should be close.

[Bladepeek]

pavan, I can change my point of aim to hit the spot, but cannot shoot "down the arrow" as I normally do without the arrow hitting way nock left (left hand shooter) and way right of the spot. The bow is braced at 6 3/4" - a bit lower than any of my other bows, but I thought Hill style bows were normally braced lower, especially with the forward handle of the Morning Star.

As I said, the 1535s fly fine with 300 gr up front, but I would like to go down to around 175 gr if possible - 200 gr at most. I just can't do that with the 1535s.

Herman, thanks for the tip. I think I probably knew that at one time, but , well, old age memory and all.....

[Scott E]

Are they full length 1535s?

[Bladepeek]

Yes, they're 30".

[long draw southpaw]

I'm shooting a 45@29 61 inch wapiti recurve.. Im shooting 2013's and 2113's  and I'm having good luck with a 200 gr tip and  29.75 inch arrow

[Bladepeek]

Right, but I show your Wapiti cut to 1/8" past center as most of my other bows are.

I will measure my distance to center, but it's a bunch and maybe install a softer side plate and increase the brace height a bit.

I have a 33# Mohawk Sparrow D-type longbow and I can pretty well shoot what you would expect out of it. This one just shows every thing stiff until I REALLY load it up. Brace height is an easy change so I will try that first.

[long draw southpaw]

Nope wapiti are cut just to center. Plus the thickness of your strike plate

[Caughtandhobble]

Mr. Peek,

If your bow is 66" I will send you a SBD skinny string that will be worth a try. I can guarantee your bow will require arrows with more dynamic spine with this string. PM me your address if you want to try it.

Good Luck,
Ben

[awbowman]

Have you tried cutting an inch off the 1535s?  I shoot 28-29" arrows out of a Super D not cut to center (47#s @ 25.5").  I can actually shoot 3555s with 225 grains up front.  I can shoot the 1535 with as little as 125 grains up front.  Maybe the GTs are just really weak when left full length.

CE Heritage 90s are an option with less spine than the 1535s.  Heritage arrows are tough!

[bowhuntingrn]

My first 2 thoughts, the CE Predator II and Heritage were already mentioned. One thought to add though, Big Jim carries them both. Shoot him a message and I bet he can steer you to what you need.

[Bladepeek]

OK, just got back from our trad shop where they have a 20 yd range, instead of the 7 yds I can manage in my shop.

pavan, you pretty well nailed it. The brace height was way too low - I guess the forward handle threw me off. I raised it to where it now measures a true 6 3/4", lowered the nocking point 1/8" and the arrows are flying like the proverbial stretched string now with just 200 gr up front. Best of all, it no longer chews my wrist. I normally wear an arm guard, but intentionally shot it without one after the changes and WOW! No muss, no fuss, no wrist slaps and the fletched and bareshafts land right on top of each other, right on point of aim.

Ben, I have an SBD 8-strand string on it and I'm a firm believer in them. Thanks for the offer, though.

Thanks to all for the help on lighter-spined arrows. I will probably buy some 700 spines and Big Jim's is the first place I would go for them.

Right now, though, I'd feel comfortable shooting a 3-D course and would expect to not do any worse than I normally do with any of my other bows.

This site is just such an encyclopedia of knowledge, (for those of you who remember encyclopedias     ).

If you go to cedars that are less than 29" bop, I like to just lightly tag my index finger with the broadhead as a confidence building draw check, do not be surprised if that bow will require a 50 pound shaft for a 125 or a 145 grain head.

[Bladepeek]

Thanks pavan. That's my plan when I get a bit more time and the basement put back together. Had a water pipe burst and everything is piled in my work room. Drywall work once everything is dried out.

I'd planned on starting with 45-50 spined Surewoods and see where it goes from there - maybe to 50-55 if those are too weak? I have some 125 glue-ons and some 190gr too. Points are cheap and readily available from my local trad shop. Somewhere in that range something ought to work out.

Right now I'm just happy that things are making some sense again.