New to trad need some arrow advice

[Tradlearner]

Hello all. This is my first time posting here and also my first year I'll be hunting with a primitive bow. First off I have shoulder problems and can't really draw more than 40 lbs. My bow is 40lbs at 28 but I draw 26.5 after talking to the Boyer who made the bow we figured I was drawing 36lbs. I have been doing lots of research and found that plenty have killed deer with this weight but I just want to make sure it is as humane as possible. I. Currently using beman center shot 600 at 29 inches. I get really good groups to 20 yards. My questions are first is this arrow going to be good enough to shoot a dee @ 20 or less yards or should I go with with something like victories vap arrows or Easton's carbon injections to get better penetration? My 2nd question was about broad heads. I'm leaning to the silver flame broad heads bc from my research they are very very good but at my draw weight is it possible to shoot a single bevel broad head like the werewolves and would a single bevel be better or worse for my poundage? I just want to make sure it is as humane as possible and I don't lose a deer. Thank you all in advance.
Oh here are the speeds I get With 373g arrow I'm getting 169-170fps with 383g arrow I'm getting 165-167fps and finally with a 413g arrow I'm getting 163fps. Now I have only shoot compounds till I hurt my shoulder so I have no idea on what these speeds mean or if they are terrible or average for my draw and poundage.
Ty for all your help

[Pheonixarcher]

Welcome to the gang!
Before you get too concerned with hunting deer, be sure that your 36#'s is legal to hunt with. A lot of states have a 40 or 45# minimum requirement.
To optimize penetration with your draw weight, I would shoot as small a diameter shaft as possible. Also, as heavy of an arrow that you can shoot consistently. I would also use a broadhead with a high mechanical advantage, like a 3:1 ratio. At 36#'s, keep the shots close, like 15yards or less, and avoid awkward angles and large bones.
Good luck, and let us know what you come with.

[Stump73]

Welcome

[Tradlearner]

Here in pa it is 35 lb min but the bow is 40@28 not sure if they check your draw length and all or just the bow. Either way I should be good for this state. I'm going to have to research the mechanical value of broad heads bc I don't know anything about it. To be honest I don't even know what  you mean. I'll find some reading material on it tho thanks. And thanks shed too excited to be here

[Tradlearner]

I was looking I to the easton injections but there spine on,y goes to 480 and I think that would be to stuff for me but I'm new so who knows. I'm shooting beman centershots right now and not sure if going to axis would make that big of a difference. The other micro diameter arrow I checked was the vap but read about lots of there inserts/outserts bending but again I don't know.

[monkeyball]

Welcome to a great site Brian. You can gain a ton of knowledge here.

 We have a few things in common, that being messed up shoulders and light bows. But hey life goes on and you make the most of it.

 I shoot bows in the light to mid 40's myself. 3-ding and hunting are no problem with that weight bow. I try to keep my arrow to bow weight at about 10 grains of arrow weight for every # of bow weight. I draw 28" and most of the deer I kill are under 18 yards.

  On 3-d courses I take the longer shots for the practice of it,not because I plan on shooting that distance on a live animal.

  Good luck figuring the equation out,it's a blast.

                                             Good Shooting,
                                                           Craig

[Jack Hoyt 75]

Keep using Beman Centershot if there working for you.  I think they are close in diameter to Axis?  Could consider Axis FulMealtimeal Jacket if you want more weight?  

Do some research on Badger Broadheads.  125 or 150 gr. should work well with 50 grain brass insert?  Badger has a banner ad on this site and is out of Georgia.  Single bevel and deadly!  Remember if you have right wing feather get right bevel broad head or vise versa.  Get the head shaving sharp, that help with penetration a lot.  If you don't hit heavy bone you should be good to go!  Just my thought.  Also consult with local archery shop or call Lancasters maybe.

Welcome to the Gang!      

[BOWMARKS]

Brian welcome to the Gang from Pa.    

Where are you located ? anywhere near Erie,if so gotta bunch of guys around here that can help you get started in to traditional archery.

[Scott E]

I setup my light weight bows with heavy arrows, a heavy point, a two blade broadhead. A sharp single bevel is a good choice but any sharp two blade will work. The silver flames are very very sharp and a great broadhead.

If you don't want to spend the money on silver flames try the steel phorce single bevel, Magnus stinger two blade, or grizzly single bevel broadheads. For sharpeners look no further than KME great product great customer service.

To up the performance on your bow you can try a high quality string like the ones from SBD (silent but deadly). Also if you can get away with not using a string silencer than don't use one or keep them small. A 36 lbs bow with a heavy arrow shouldn't be noisy anyway. Also having perfectly tuned arrows is really helpful in improving performance.

Look up the Ashby Reports online and read them. It's basically a how to guide on improving penetration.

I think the overall arrow weight you are shooting is good. The arrow speeds seem fast to me for the draw weight and draw length.  What are you shooting for point weight?

[Tradlearner]

Monkey thanks for the welcome and the advice. I'm trying to keep my arrow weight between 360 n 400. Just like u suggested it should be around 10gpi.


Jack thanks for the advice on arrows. The axis are very very slightly smaller outside diameter but hardly noticeable. Also I have a question for you on that single bevel droid head. With my draw weight and draw length( or I guess you can just lol at the speeds I'm getting for the 3 different arrow weights I shot I guess) would a single bevel broad head lose to much forward energy when it hits the flesh and starts to spin? I have read many good things about single bevel but everyone seems to be mid 40s plus in poundage.  I don't actually know how much forward momentum would be lots when it starts to spin? Would it still have enough to go out other side? Thanks again and any additional info on this I'd love to read or soak the knowledge  of yours or the many others on here about it.


Bowmarks thanks for the welcome. I am from just a little south east of pittsburgh but I make a few trips up to Erie every year for steelhead fishing.

[Scott E]

Originally posted by Tradlearner:


Also I have a question for you on that single bevel droid head. With my draw weight and draw length( or I guess you can just lol at the speeds I'm getting for the 3 different arrow weights I shot I guess) would a single bevel broad head lose to much forward energy when it hits the flesh and starts to spin? I have read many good things about single bevel but everyone seems to be mid 40s plus in poundage.  I don't actually know how much forward momentum would be lots when it starts to spin? Would it still have enough to go out other side? Thanks again and any additional info on this I'd love to read or soak the knowledge  of yours or the many others on here about it.
.

Single bevels don't loose any energy from spinning as they cut. Just make sure you match the bevel to the feathers on your arrow. For example  Left wing bevel for left wing feathers. That way they will spin the same way your arrow is already spinning. They are the best broadhead for penetration and will give you the best chances at a pass through.

Here is a link to the ashby reports:  http://www.tradgang.com/ashby/

[Jack Hoyt 75]

That is good advise from Scott E.

Single bevel spin does not mean it slows down more than other heads.  It is designed to make a larger wound channel for quicker kill.  They are also suppose to be very accurate.   Others on this site are much more knowledgable than me on this subject.  I would not be to concerned but Magnus is also worth considering and is great broad head line.

I can't guarantee pass thus since every shot, situation and deer is different.  Also some people freak and then short draw and snap shoot, if you do that you are really light poundage.  I think if you don't hit big bone you should be fine but a little more poundage would help. I think your on right track.

I would get the set up you want then shoot a lot from a stand at target to become very confidence you can put the arrow where it must go.  Shooting from the stand feels different.  A lot of people think highly of the Centershot arrows, no issue there.

Great way to find out lots of specifics is to learn how to use the search feature to find old posts on topics you want to know about.

Also, if your newer to traditional remember great form is everything.  Best thing I did was go to a Rod Jenkins archery clinic.  He does them at Lancaster Archery sometimes.
With good form, expansion, back tension your draw length may increase which helps, mine did.

Other experts will chime in I am sure.

I like you, still have lots to learn but that is the fun part!!  Good luck this fall.

[Tradlearner]

Scott thanks for the link I will need some time to read it. I am very interested in it bc this baffles me.  

Jack  and rest thanks for all your help so far. I really appreciate it. I also understand the importance of form. I remember long ago b4 I hurt my shoulder I used to shoot competitive 3d Asa and Ibo and I was lucky enough to make friends with a Hoyt pro staff member n he offered to let me come to his house and work on my form. I was new to archery in general then so I was very excited and went expecting to see a full 3d range at his house. Instead he took me down into his basement where there was a target hanging in the middle.  He told me to stand here (a few feet away from it ) draw and close my eyes. Then just focus on my release and my form nothing else not aiming nor anything just close my eyes and work through the shot. I used to practice that way for hours. That was long ago tho and  when I decided to start archery again I started with this traditional style and it was just so much fun and harder I couldn't do anything else. Well I guess I got to learn all over again. Lots to learn that is for sure.

[Tradlearner]

Scott I forgot to answer your question on my point weight. When i shot them through the chrono the lighter arrow was a 125 grain point then 145 point and lastly a 175 grain point

[Scott E]

Go with the heaviest point that still gives you the best arrow flight.

[Tradlearner]

Well thanks for all the advice and help. I came into a centuar which will be about 46lbs in my draw. I decided to make it easier for my choice and just bought it. I am hoping I can pull it with my shoulder but I should be able to. Guess we will find out. I just feel better hunting with a bow weight little higher than 36 37 lbs. I was talking to Jim of centuar and he thinks I can shoot 400 out it with a 200g broad head making my arrow  around 500 grains so if I can pull it I'm really excited because I know it will get a complete pass through.

[dink]

welcome to the gang,
         
        Brian i would shoot the heaviest arrow you can,i hav a couple bows in that range and all of them i shoot arrows in the 600 gr range.You would be fine with a sharp single bev.I shot a deer last year with with a single bev big game head ,and went right through with a 45# recurve.
right now i believe im going to use deltas with a heavy insert to get them up to about 200 gr.

     south east of pitts.sure sounds like my neck of woods how far are you from somerset.

[Tradlearner]

Dink do you know where Latrobe is? Probably. Well I'm not from there lol. I'm from a small town about 20 mins from there called saltsburg. No one ever knows of it so I just say close to Latrobe. Hey I got a question for you then. I'm confused on the pa laws. If I am wearing orange and small game hunting with my bow am I allowed to use blunts or if I have my bow I always have to have the legal broad heads in quiver for big game here.


Mods if I'm  not allowed to hijack my own thread I'm sorry mods just let me know and I'll delete this I just saw he was close to me and decided to ask

[monterey]

I had a shoulder problem for two years and was down to 38# at 28".  I went to a 675 grain arrow with a 190 grain 3:1 MA broadhead.  I found that with practice I could be right on the money out to 20 yards.  Those heavies are quieter and, at least for me, more consistent.