A clear and easy way to tune arrows?

[kenn1320]

When I read post that say no need to shoot a bare shaft, I cringe a bit. It's not easy, but it's not that hard either. Put a video camera on the bale facing you and watch your arrow flight. Even arrows that bare shaft well can still be going through ossolations after being in the air for 30yds. I've got video of weak fletched arrows you can see fly all the way to the target at about 8deg. I recently grabbed (2) tuned arrows and (2) that most shops/spine calculators would suggest and shot them from random distances 15-35yds. I was looking for a grouping trend more than accuracy. Out of 8 rounds the non tuned only grouped closer to each other 1 time(hey I'm human, probably got plucked it). Lol seriously the trend showed that there is accuracy left on the table if your arrows aren't tuned for your form and bow.

[DaveT1963]

YOu can tune you arrow to your bow or tune your bow to your arrow.  There is just as much mainpulation on the bow sight window, rest/window material, nock, brace height, etc...

I prefer to do this as I use same arrows from most of my bows.  Of course The arrow shafts have to be in the ballpark to begin with.

[Don Stokes]

I shot a bow for 30 years before I met Dan Quillian and he introduced me to bare shaft tuning. Solved all my problems.

I noticed while checking out broadheads that Three Rivers has a kit of several spines for tuning. I was looking at wood, but maybe they have them for other materials too.

I just finished tuning my dozen broadhead arrows this morning. After confirming that I have the right spine by bare-shafting, I put broadheads on and found I needed more weight on one batch to compensate for a length adjustment, added 190 Ribteks, Tuskers, and Grizzlys and they flew perfectly.

Which reminds me, bare shaft tuning should only be done with field points, not with broadheads.

[jonsimoneau]

Lots of good input guys.  Hopefully the newcomers can get some good info.  DaveT1963 you are right.  I use a combination of both.  As an example: First I bareshaft my arrows.  I get them flying as perfect as I can.  I know some guys say to leave them a little weak but I don't.  When They are flying perfectly straight out to 25 or so yards then I am done cutting the shaft.  Now if they are flying straight, but consistently hitting to the right (I'm a right handed shooter) then before I do anymore cutting, I will build out the side plate of my bow.  Normally this does it.  If they are still consistently hitting a little right then I may trim 1/8 inch off to very slightly stiffen them up.  These things have worked well for me.
     By the way...my buddy who I was originally talking about at the beginning of this post is now giddy because He has gotten his arrows flying better than ever.  Good for him!

[beendare]

Then there is arrow assembly too.....
On a whim I grabbed one of my buddies hunting arrows and spun it and it wobbled like crazy! Plus it was a bit dull from being shot into a target..."good enough" he said......ugh, No!

Tuning does get a bit tricky when adding a bunch of weight to the front like using the heavy inserts. I'm still fairly new to trad but found it easiest to download Stu's calculator off the internet and get my carbon arrows close then bareshaft tune from there as described on either Easton tuning guide [free download] OL Adcocks site or Bob Morrison's site.