Arrow Suggestions

[Diamond Paul]

Hey, I haven't been here in a while, but I was wondering about arrow selection.  I'm shooting a 45lb Hoyt Buffalo recurve, and though my arrows fly ok, they just don't seem consistent.  I like the Heritage arrows, and I've played with different spines, but I was just wondering what most of you would choose out of this bow, at 28" draw, including length and point weight?  I've used the 150s, but felt like the total weight was too high with a point that would make them fly well.  I've been shooting the 90s with 150 grains up front, 29" long, but wonder if I might be underspined.  When I bare shaft, it appears that the 90s are a bit stiff still, but I just can't see that.  I'm confused and frustrated, and would like to hear what others are using.  
Thanks.

[Possum Head]

Never shot Heritage but from my 45 lb curve Gold tip 35-55 do great. You could start with full length and the 150 gr tips you've been using and should be close. Big Jim just posted a sell he's having. 15% off blems cant be beat.

[damascusdave]

Switch to aluminum if you want to make the tuning process easier...if not keep playing with carbon until you frustrate yourself enough you will switch to aluminum

DDave

[Diamond Paul]

Aluminum?  Ok, I used to shoot aluminum when I first started with recurves.  Do you have a suggested aluminum arrow for my setup?  2016 perhaps?

[damascusdave]

I shoot carbon arrows quite a bit but I have access to bunches of arrows to test with that do not cost me anything since my buddy has an arrow making business...still we find that the easiest arrow to tune are the aluminums for a couple of reasons...first there are spine ratings in between the ones associated with carbons...secondly aluminum responds better to changes in point weight than does carbon...and thirdly changing the length of an aluminum arrow does not seem to have as much effect on dynamic spine...my second choice to aluminum is actually the carbon/aluminum Full Metal Jacket

DDave

[Stumpkiller]

Douglas fir.  That's what I use in my 45 lb bows.  And my 65 lb bows.  ;-)

You should be able to get away with 55-60# spine, or even 50-55# with the heavier 150 gr heads you are using.

[Diamond Paul]

Ok, I don't have any aluminum arrows left, but I can go to the shop and see if they have any I can try.

[damascusdave]

Paul the other thing that my buddy Cameron and I have proven time and again is that strings can make a huge difference...Cameron just ordered a new Buffalo and his research leads him to believe that they now come with a string made with BCY-X...if you read a bit about that material on here you will find it is a very special material and it could very well require a stiffer spine than the older strings Hoyt was using...if you have an older Buffalo or if it has something other than a factory issued string that could also be factor since BCY-X has only be available for less than a year...my gut says you might want to start with a 2018 rather than a 2016...if it is a new one with a BCY-X string you might even need to go 2117...see if you can get a test kit from somebody like 3Rivers...enjoy the ride man and if you ever make it to Saskatchewan come join Cameron and me in his basement for a Dynamic Spine 101 class...I have learned more about tuning since I met the man than I did in the four and a half years I shot before meeting him

DDave

[Diamond Paul]

I don't want to mess with wood, but thanks for the suggestion.

[damascusdave]

Nothing wrong with Douglas Fir either...that is the next project Cameron and I will undertake this winter, sorting out woodies

DDave

[Diamond Paul]

I have an older one, but I don't shoot factory strings anyway.  In fact, I called Bob Morrison yesterday to inquire about skinny strings because I can't get in touch with the guy who used to make my strings.  I'm thinking of trying a string with fewer strands for better performance.  The strings I have been using are pretty heavy, although they work well and hold up for a long time.

[Diamond Paul]

I also have a Wes Wallace at the same weight that I'm thinking of setting up again.  I shot his bows for a good while, but I kind of like the bomb proofness of the metal riser on the Hoyt.

[BigJim]

75's are what you are going to need out of that bow if you are going to buy new arrows. You can likely make the 90's work if they are full length and you add some weight up front...might be excessive though.

If you are frustrated with carbons, you are probably treating them like wood or aluminum. Treat them like carbons and you'll get it straight.

I have gold tip blem 1535's ...and all sizes of Cx on sale right now. I can't say how much here, but you can check out the web site. But if I would guess, I would say that 25.50 is a heck of a price for a half doz gold tips.

BIgJIm

[Diamond Paul]

As a matter of fact, I have some 75s.  Only problem is that they don't come full length like the other sizes do.  They are about 29 or 29.5" max out of the box, I guess cause they figure only people with shorter draws or younger people will use them.  I haven't messed with them in a while, but it seems like I remember them making me even more confused, like possibly I had to add more weight up front than seemed possible and I was sure I was getting some kind of false reading off them.  I have one here on the wall, I might try it again today.

[WildmanSC]

I'm shooting Carbon Express Maxima Red 350s out of my Morrison Cheyenne, 45#@28" and my Tall Tines T/D Recurve, 49#@28".  I'm using 200 gr up front on the 29" arrows wih both bows.  They fly like darts out of both bows.  I'm drawing 28-3/4" with both bows.

Bill

[Diamond Paul]

350s?  Isn't that a very heavy spine, like high 60s or even 70?  My problem is that everything shows overspined when bareshafting, and everything tends to hit left when fletched, which might or might not indicate overspined.  I just can't wrap my mind around putting 200+ grains up front on a 75 arrow for some reason.  Something seems out of place here.

[Diamond Paul]

Ok, here's the deal.  If my bare shafts aren't lying to me, then 75s are correct, but there is a catch.  I just spent some time bare shafting a 75, which I forgot I had until someone mentioned them.  Started with 145 up front.  Looked good up close, stiff from  10+ yards out.  Same with 175.  200 grains looked really good but tended towards a bit stiff on average.  Went to 250 grains.  All the way out to 25 yards they flew like fletched arrows, with just a touch of nock left, which should be ideal when fletched.  That just blows my mind.  I simply can't imagine needing that weak of an arrow with that much point weight.  I guess I'm afraid that there is no way that arrow is going to shoot well with a broadhead (I have been using the Woodsman heads, which do come that heavy, I think).  Does this sound correct, or even possible to anyone?  I was thinking of going to a skinny string because it seems like I must not be getting all the performance I should be getting out of this bow.  Compounds never confused me this much.