New guy here...very new with ????

[tronman]

Been lurking for a bit and figured might as well say hello.
Been interested in archery for years but just never took the plunge. Well this weekend I went and did it. Went to the local archery shop and looked around, knew I wanted a recurve,( always figured if I was going to use a compound I may as well just stick with my rifles), and ended up leaving with a new Gamemaster II 50# @28". I've always loved the look of a nice wood bow, and the Gamemaster is kinda space age lookin, but it just felt good. The shop pro set me up with some arrows to start off with, Easton 2113s and I not knowing anything later picked up a box of some on sale carbons at Academy which are considerably longer at 31 1/2" to the Eastons 25 1/2"...Have been shooting both all weekend and it seems I can shoot decent with either at 20yds, of course if I shoot several of one and then pick up one of the others it takes a few shots to get back into anything resembling a group. Anyone have any suggestions on the arrows? The short Eastons seem to be really short and I've noticed I'm leary on drawing them as I'm afraid of drawing them off the shelf. Which is more appropriate for this bow?
One more question, I'm trying to talk myself out of trying to hunt with this thing this year, I'll still have my rifle season  :rolleyes:  but...I am consistently able to group within a pieplate at 20yds...would I be being unethical to try and take a deer shooting like that? I have a serious aversion to wounding an animal through my carelessness.

[Ian johnson]

the eastons are way too short!, stick with the carbons, your real good as a beginner if you can keep them all in a pieplate at 20 yards

[Killdeer]

It would help to know what your draw length is.

Killdeer

[tronman]

Thanks for the replies guys!

Ian,

Thats what they told me when I played my first round of golf too...then a buddy of mine tried to correct my form and I haven't hit a ball without a slice since...so maybe this is just beginners luck, but I've probably shot 300 arrows this weekend, would be shooting more right now but it's humid as heck and my arm is tired!

Killdeer,

According to what I read about measuring draw length (distance between fingertips arms outstretched divide by 2.5) I should have a draw of 29". Unless thats not the right way to measure that...???

[tronman]

Oops, sorry Killdeer, I lied...draw length came out to 28"...with 29" I'd probably look like a chimpanzee!

[matt matney]

Tronman,  let me get this straight your drawing about 28" and the archery shop set you up with arrows that are 25 1/2" long????

[tronman]

Matt,

 You are correct sir! They were actually out of any assembled arrows other than the ones he gave me that apparently someone had ordered and didn't pick up. When I test fired a couple at the shop I noticed they seemed short, but figured they knew more about it than I. I should also state that their business almost 100% compound stuff, very small selection of recurve/longbow. But they are also about the only place around here.

[matt matney]

tronman,  sent you a pm

[Earl E. Nov...mber]

Kevin, first thing you are going to need to know is where you are going to anchor.. Index finger or middle finger to the corner of your mouth are very common.
Once you feel you have that, just visualize your draw, holding your bow hand out, bring your draw hand to anchor and apply the mysterious back tension.. (Basically pinch your shoulder blades together or make sure your elbow is all the way back.
Then take your bow in hand (Unstrung) and draw one of those full length carbons. Have someone mark the arrow at the back of the bow.. Drawing a bow is like dancing  (Belly to belly so to speak)
Let you imaginary draw down, measure the arrow bottom of the nock to the mark, add one inch and that should be the length of your arrow..
Latter you will end up adjusting that, but for starters that will give you a length to work with and feel safe with.
If it is longer than 25" go back to the shop and tell them you really don't want the arrows.
If you don't have someone handy to mark the arrow, stick an arrow thru a piece of paper and slide it about half way up the shaft before going thru the draw process, It will slide down the arrow and should stay put till you can measure.

[R H Clark]

Sounds like the shop guy unloaded some short arrows on someone he figured wouldn't know the difference.

[tronman]

ok, talked to Matt, and I think the reason they gave me those arrows were they were the only ones they had that had feathers. The other arrows I bought had eh...whats the term? Fake feathers that are soft plastic...that works. Anyway, from what I was told I guess shooting off the rest I should be using feathers and not the others. I'm new I didn't know better  :rolleyes:  .

I hope now that I have an idea of what I should actually be using and how to get them "tuned" to the bow I should be shooting like William Tell! Or maybe not...

Anyway, thanks guys for the input and setting me on the right path. I'm sure I'm going to have lots more questions! Got to say so far I'm extremely impressed with this forum, looks like a lot of good folks here.  

[coldpaddler]

Tronman,

An excellent source of information is the "bow tuning" link on the A&H Archery web site.

-Dan

[T.J.]

If you can, get a copy of "masters of the barebow vol 1" It will be invaluable. I don't think there's a better video for the beginner. I would say go with the carbons and if you're shooting in a pie plate at 20yrds you're doing real good for a beginner. Before you go hunting with it make sure you practice with broad heads attached because it's a different ball game then. But if you can shoot good with the broad heads on then you'd be just fine going hunting. Just remember your limits when that deer comes by. Good luck!