CE Heritage shafts or Gold Tip trads

[Jasper2]

I prefer the GT. The Heritage shoot way too stiff for my setup.  I had to leave them really long and put a pile of weight out front which gave me an overall arrow weight and trajectory that I didn't like.  The durability issue is spot on though.

Interesting what Kirk heard about the GT arrows vs the blemished ones.  I've shot them both for years side by side and while I'm not a "real" good shot, the only difference that I see is a few white streaks and $25 per dozen.

[KAZ]

CE Heritage are for sure better in my opinion...

[Ringneck]

Gold Tip blems have been good for me. Durability hasn't been a problem and the price is right.

[BigJim]

We sell a bunch of both the Heritage and the Gold Tips. The Gold Tips certainly win out as far as quantity sales ...2014 CX 500+ dz and Gold Tip 4500+ dz sold. Sales isn't always a determining factor though.

More people seem to have difficulty with feather, wrap, and insert adhesion with the CX heritage, but once you have that part figure out, there isn't much difficulty.
I would say that the Heritage has a slight edge in durability but I personally shoot the Gold Tips as I find them to be very durable and easier to tune...having said that, I find the Heritage tune better out of my personal recurve...it's all about the right spine for your set up.

I hear people ask about the consistency of this and that, but they all fall within the specs set forth by AMO and are far more consistent than wood.
In reality, the only way we have to measure spine consistency is "static" and the small discrepancies found have little if any affect on "dynamic" spine.
There are so many things that affect how an arrow leaves the bow and the number one most consistent one is the individual bow...number two is the arrow. Too often the equipment catches hell for the faults of the driver.

I have some beautiful footed wood shafts that I like to shoot from one of my bows. When I quit worrying about how straight they were, my groupings and accuracy improved greatly. I don't ever look at the straightness anymore and boy they shoot great.
I think I could remove a cork with at least two of them though.

Just my experience and not so popular opinion, BigJIm

[BigJim]

For the record..
When making shafts with a wrap, Gold Tip takes finished black shafts and apply the wrap. These shafts are already in specs and ready to sell as black shafts before applying the wraps.
After the wrap is applied, they are examined and if the coloring is off, or they have streaks or spots, they are removed and marked as blems. Often times this happens in batches as it is impossible for them to visually examine every single shaft coming out of the plant. This is why many cant find anything wrong with their blems.

There is no physical quality difference in the blems than in the non-blems. Blemishes are cosmetic only...yes, many years ago, they had an issue with an employee who mixed cosmetic blems and rejects, but we haven't seen any problems with them in over 5 or 6 years.

The other manufacturers don't sell blems, they just mix them in and sell them as firsts. I have seen many cosmetic blemishes in CX and Easton woodgrain shafts only they weren't sold as such.

Those that know me, know I wouldn't sell garbage just to make a few bucks.
BigJim

[the rifleman]

My only experience w gts are blems that I've bought from big Jim.  I shoot the 1535s w 200 up front.  Initially I had inserts come loose w epoxy.  I paid more attention to prepping and used jb weld-- they stay in.  I admit that I am abusive toward arrows.  I shoot a lot and am not choosey about targets-- I'll shoot fresh oak stumps and other tough objects.  I can tell you that I've had no problems with the gt blems breaking.  I do foot them front w 2117 1 inch and nock end 3/8 inch but I also foot my bemans.  Next time I order from big Jim I will get some of his low temp glue.  I have heard great things about the heritage and may try them one day as the have an even lighter spine range available.

[Michael Arnette]

CE have more consistent spine in general but I've killed all but 2 of my deer (+- 25) until this year with GT, I started with Beman ICS this year and really like the price.
I've always preferred the gpi of the GT traditionals

[cahaba]

When I shot carbon it was CE Heritage. Never broke one stumping and it was easy to get 10 gpp with them.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Big Jim,

So are you saying there is no difference between the GT XX blemished shafts and the GT XT traditionals?.... there is certainly a difference in the price...

[Longbow58]

Yes rifleman do yourself a favor and get that lowtemp glue from Big Jim. I got some at Denton from him and it is awesome to work with. Only glue I'll use on GT trads. The inserts on the CE are tighter and you do have less problems.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Originally posted by Longbow58:
Yes rifleman do yourself a favor and get that lowtemp glue from Big Jim. I got some at Denton from him and it is awesome to work with. Only glue I'll use on GT trads. The inserts on the CE are tighter and you do have less problems.

I've found its real easy to deal with brass inserts on CE being too tight by chucking up a field tip in a drill press or even a hand drill and use a file or a piece of sand paper to turn them down just a fuzz.... I've never minded having a tight fit on the nocks.

[KSdan]

Quick wire wheel buff helps inserts too.

[coldwinterlake]

I bought a dozen of GTs and broke all of them in a month. 3 were destroyed by a pebble underneat our lawn??? CX are heavy and durable especially accompanied with brass inserts. I've shot them twice straight to concrete wall without shattering them. Amazing

[savage1]

If I would have documented every tree,stone,4x4
and rebar I ever hit I could demonstrate hands down that CE is the stronger shaft. The gts split at the knock end if nothing else. We take lots of long shots for beer rounds usually compound stakes. As a qualified bad shot I have to find tough shafts.

Heritage and Piledrivers for me over gts..

Lou

[Pat B.]

I try not to shoot rocks, pipes or other hard objects but I do shoot every day with the GT blems. Mostly just roving, shooting at clods, sticks, leaves or grass clumps.. The GT's hold up well for me, sometimes shooting one arrow for a month or two before I loose it or break it. I do believe the CE's are a bit more durable but they're also a lot more expensive.
    Since I discovered Big Jim and the GT blems several years ago I've enjoyed inexpensive carbon arrows that shoot better than I can.

[LA Trapper]

That glue from Big Jim is the cat's meow!  Good stuff.

I am in between spine weight with my Widow with GT's.  The Heritages fill the bill and shoot good.

[Tajue17]

Heritage over GT's for me

Whichever you can get to tune the best!

Bisch