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Author Topic: Footing carbons question  (Read 295 times)

Offline Tickbait

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Footing carbons question
« on: March 23, 2015, 01:36:00 PM »
A question for all you footing gurus.  If using brass inserts, do you glue the footing flush with the end of the insert or flush with the end of the shaft?  Sorry, never did this before.  Thanks.

Offline sticksnstones

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Re: Footing carbons question
« Reply #1 on: March 23, 2015, 01:41:00 PM »
Disregard, read it wrong. End of shaft for me but I run 1 piece brass adapters.
Thom

Offline Pete McMiller

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Re: Footing carbons question
« Reply #2 on: March 23, 2015, 01:43:00 PM »
In my case, using Victory VforceHV 300 shafts, the footing doesn't fit over the brass insert only the shaft.  Assemble one and see.  Frankly I don't see any reason to foot over the brass insert, it's already the strongest part of the joint.
Pete
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Offline huntmaster70

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Re: Footing carbons question
« Reply #3 on: March 23, 2015, 01:46:00 PM »
install footing first flush with end of shaft then brass insert

Offline Tickbait

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Re: Footing carbons question
« Reply #4 on: March 23, 2015, 01:54:00 PM »
Thanks guys.  I can see now that the insert is slightly larger in diameter than the shaft.

Offline ozy clint

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Re: Footing carbons question
« Reply #5 on: March 23, 2015, 04:17:00 PM »
when i shot gold tips i used to grind down the insert to match the shaft diameter with a bench grinder after they were glued in then foot them to the end of the insert.
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Border black douglas recurve 70# and 58# HEX6 BB2 limbs

Offline Bldtrailer

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Re: Footing carbons question
« Reply #6 on: March 24, 2015, 05:11:00 PM »
 
I foot to the end of the shaft front to edge of insert and rear nock end. I use 2117, 2 inches on my 3555 front( longer than 100grn insert) and 1/4 inch on nock end .On my 1535 trads I use 1 inch front, 1/4 nock with supplied insert.
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Offline M60gunner

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Re: Footing carbons question
« Reply #7 on: March 24, 2015, 08:04:00 PM »
Same as Huntmaster 70 weather I use brass or alum inserts. Some factory alum are flush with end of shaft so I put on foot, install insert and slide foot over insert to be flush with end of shaft.

Offline **DONOTDELETE**

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Re: Footing carbons question
« Reply #8 on: March 24, 2015, 08:56:00 PM »
Personally i don't see any advantage to going over the brass insert or aluminum at the end of the shaft....

The thing i had problems with was cutting my over footings the same length as the brass insert inside the shaft and they were snapping off right behind the footing at the end of the insert.

I'm having much better luck with slightly shorter over footings in that regard.

Offline Trond

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Re: Footing carbons question
« Reply #9 on: March 25, 2015, 04:14:00 AM »
The only purpose with the footing is to prevent splitting of the end of the arrows when hitting something hard, if I understand it correctly. Therefore I cannot see why the footing should be longer than 3/4", maybe 1". Please correct me if I'm wrong.
BearPaw Cayuga 66", 37# @29"
Samick Red Fox 64", 35# @28"
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Offline ozy clint

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Re: Footing carbons question
« Reply #10 on: March 25, 2015, 07:37:00 AM »
the longer the footing beyond the back of the insert the less leverage the center of mass has on that weak point of the back of the footing. with my new water buff arrows i'm making i have 6.5" footings. the balance point of the arrow lies  about 5" from BOP. this should eliminate the problem kirk said he was experiencing because the back of the footing is behind the center of mass not in front of it, meaning the center of mass has no leverage against that weak point. the weak point point is getting dragged in, not pushed against.

at a guess about two thirds of the total mass of the arrow will be in front of the back of the footing. if it should break there it will maximise retention of momentum.
Thick fog slowly lifts
Jagged peaks and hairy beast
Food for soul and body.

Border black douglas recurve 70# and 58# HEX6 BB2 limbs

Offline Trond

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Re: Footing carbons question
« Reply #11 on: March 25, 2015, 07:43:00 AM »
So maybe the toughest arrow you can make, is a carbon inside a alu full length. Heavy but tough.
BearPaw Cayuga 66", 37# @29"
Samick Red Fox 64", 35# @28"
"The more you work, the luckier you get." Byron Ferguson

Online Hermon

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Re: Footing carbons question
« Reply #12 on: March 25, 2015, 08:10:00 AM »
Quote
Originally posted by Trond:
So maybe the toughest arrow you can make, is a carbon inside a alu full length. Heavy but tough.
Easton Full Metal Jacket.

Offline Doc Nock

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Re: Footing carbons question
« Reply #13 on: March 25, 2015, 08:42:00 AM »
There was a period of time where serious efforts were expended to find a way to make a "INTERNAL" footing that was not a straight taper, but more of a parabolic taper... such that as the shaft bent from impact, the curved taper would limit and spread out the stress on the carbon shaft, eliminating any breakage.

The problem was they were all hand made using hardwood dowels and sanding to shape...I could not imagine getting them "matched" to one another and the PnA factor was just too high.

Several attempts to make something suitable commercially, failed, so the idea fizzled.

but reportedly, those arrows, so outfitted, took glancing blows off steel plates from 80# bows! No breakage or snapping off...

I just do not anticipate such actions in my bow shooting future so never pursued it personally.

I've had good enough success with 2117 on black GT, a bit longer than the 100 gr. insert and worked well enough to allow me to use lighter gpi shafts and focus more weight up front.

but that is a whole other discussion...   :rolleyes:
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