I think I am getting arrow contact on my riser

[Pryor]

I had another thread on here about paper tuning my 50# Montana.  I built out my strike plate to shorten my left high tares. I have been shooting for a week or so and my arrow flight seams better.  It has become evident that I have arrow contact on my riser.  I can actually feel the fetching hit my bow hand on release, and after inspecting my fetching they are all worn in the same spot where they make contact.  I am wondering what I need to change to stop this.  I am wondering about nock pinch, and how close to the arrow my fingers should be on the string.  I am shooting a 50# bow, drawing to 28 3/4".  I am shooting Easton legacy 2018's cut to 30 1/4 inches.  I am a right handed shooter.  I am shooting pretty well at 10 yards, and turkey season starts in two weeks.  I don't want to make any drastic changes before the season, but am going to start from scratch after.  I was thinking about shortening my arrows about 3/4 of an inch, and raising my nock point.  I think I am just under 1/2 inch for nock point.  
  Thanks in advance for any ideas.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

You can build up a crown on your rest to raise the arrow up a bit.... & of course you'll have to raise your string nock up proportionately.....

When you start getting close, use lip stick on the strike side and back of the arrow shelf to check it and rotate your fletching until you get proper clearance. Sometimes cock feather in works real well too.....

worst case, you could refletch with LP feathers or trim the ones you have.

[mahantango]

Have you paper tuned again since you built out the strike plate? Your nock point sounds low to me, and the shafts borderline stiff for that bow. A 2018 is .464 spine. Building out the strike plate would make them more so. Have you tried a 2016 or even 1916?

[Bladepeek]

My thinking too. Sounds like the arrow is bouncing off the shelf causing the "left" tears.

[Orion]

Yep.  Probably too stiff, and nock point seems too low to me.  If your brace height lessened, or is less than 6 1/2 inches, that could also be contributing to the problem.

[sheepdogreno]

Sounds too stiff. A 2016 at 31in or 1916 at 30 may work better

[BigJim]

Are you a three under shooter? if so, do you have two nock points on the string..one below and one above arrow nock?

Three under nock height will be higher than split...usual height about 5/8"-3/4" but not set in stone. Tie a nock point on under the arrow with about a 1/16" gap so the arrow doesn't get pinched at full draw...this will eventually cause serving separation.

I can't help on arrow spine as that shaft sounds to be a bit stiffer than my beer cans    I admittedly know very little about aluminum arrows.

Feathers hitting your hand is commonly caused by a low nock. When you get things right, it won't matter what way you turn  your cock feather as none of them will hit.

BigJIm

[Pryor]

Thanks for the feed back.  I am going to try raising my nock point up some and see what happens.  I am a three under shooter.  never thought about having two sting nocks.  Do you guys prefer metal string nocks, or tie on? I have a metal nock point on know.  What are the advantages of both?  I am going to get a new string after the season, was thinking ten ring strings. What is the strand count I should get, The stock string is 18 strands, and I have heard switching to a 10 or 12 strand would improve bow performance.  Thanks for all advice.  I am enjoying shooting this thing so much I don't know if I will ever pick up my compound again.

[Pryor]

Moved my nock position up a little, and what a difference.  Arrows are flying nice and true.  I lost some fletching on one arrow, so I cut the rest off and tried a little bare shafting.  The bare shaft is nock left once it is in the target, but landing right with my other arrows.  couldn't be happier!!! Thanks again

[mahantango]

Glad to hear it! That was an easy fix. I agree with Big Jim about the two nock points. Eliminates one more variable. Although I never understood why it would matter if you're shooting three under or split - it's good practice for either style. A lot of us prefer tie-ons.

Tie on nocking points all day long! They are easily adjustable as the "screw" up and down the serving. No tools needed to adjust. They will not eat into a glove or tab either like the brass ones can.

Bisch

[Jerry Jeffer]

Thanks Big Jim about two nock points. I just use one with the arrow nocked under, and three fingers below.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Originally posted by Bisch:
Tie on nocking points all day long! They are easily adjustable as the "screw" up and down the serving. No tools needed to adjust. They will not eat into a glove or tab either like the brass ones can.

Bisch

2X on the tie on knocking points.  check out this video. this is a cool knot that works very nice.