Glue on points

[TooManyHobbies]

I went to a 3D shoot this morning. Took my LB and 3 Douglas Fir arrows. I took three practice shots at the bag target before hitting the course. All three of my points came off in the target. Didn't bring extras, so had to go home, get aluminums and back to the course.
What glue, adhesive, epoxy, etc is best for glue-on points? What's the best way to prepare the surface for attachment?

[Doug_K]

All I've used with wooden arrows is hot melt, no problems.

The rougher your taper is, the better it will hold, but I've never bothered roughing it up any more than what is done with the tapering tool.

Another thought is I usually finish the shafts before cutting the tapers (Don't know if this is the correct way), if you're finishing after, it could be that your glue isn't adhering to whatever finish you used.

[Matty]

I'll add to the above by saying, the Inside of the points also have grease and sometime soot inside of them which keeps the glue from adhering to them. I'd soak them in alcohol and use a Q-tip to clean them out thoroughly. Some people just heat them over flame to clean it also.

[TooManyHobbies]

Thanks guys. I just burned the insides, but I'll soak, clean, dry.
I also burned the glue and clear coat off the tip and sanded.
These arrows came from Snag, I didn't do them myself.
Is Hot Melt the same stuff from a hot glue gun?

[bowhuntingrn]

Matty hit it on "the head" I use a .30 caliber brush, then 91% Isopropyl on a qtip, then a dry qtip, and finally a little flame. May be overkill, but I rarely have a tip come loose (even when others are). I use the blue Bohning hot melt and think it has performed well. I will probably try some of Big Jim's hot melt when he get's in the new woodgrains just because I've heard so much good about it.

[M60gunner]

Not the same hot melt. Some do use it however. I like the hot melt from Black Widow. I do notice that after a couple years the glues go south. I redo them as I remember to. What those above said about cleaning the points is right on. I also use the edge of a small double cut file to go around the taper to form a groove for the glue to settle in.

[huronhunter]

The yellow ferrel tite work great . I never had the said problems you are having. What i would recommend is to , re heat your points if you hit a hard surface . Hitting a hard surface will fracture the glue causing the point to pull of in your next target .

[Minnesota Bill]

I had the same problem once, my wife had dropped me off at a 3-d shoot then went into town to go shopping.  I had read that someone used 5 min 2-part epoxy so I had given this a try.  Shot all twelve of my arrows into the plastic bales for warm up, pulled them out and had lost every last field tip.  Apparently the heat of the friction into these bales deactivated the holding power of the quick set epoxy, just what the package said - use heat to remove parts glued together. Well I learned from that the hard way, wife was not to pick me up for three hours.  Someone did give me some miss matched arrows to at least run through the course with.
Bill

[TooManyHobbies]

All arrows are prepped, and I order some of the blue Bohning hot melt. Thanks for the replies.

[V I Archer]

I bought a point brush from 3 rivers, chuck in the cordless drill, 5 seconds for each tip.  Works great, money well spent.  May order another for when I inevitably loose this one.

[Jock Whisky]

The best I've found is Saunders hot melt stick adhesive from The Footed Shaft.
Also important to ensure the inside of the head is squeaky clean.

[slowbowjoe]

One more thing I've found important is to hold the point in place with pliers while it's still hot, and run a little cold water over it. Dipping it in a glass of water would work too, I think.
The hot melt expands, and can push the point out a bit, ruining the bond.

Also, you may be doing it this way already, but I first coat the arrow taper with the melted glue, then heat the point and press it onto the taper. Check for spinning true if you can, then the water to cool it down.