I admit, I still dont get it

[ishoot4thrills]

Originally posted by Stumpkiller:
That might be the additional sound of the angels crying when you use three fingers under.

I'm assuming you're joking by throwing that subtle stone at us that shoot 3 under?

[Roy from Pa]

It has a lot to do of how the bow is tillered. I shoot three under and my tree is setup to replicate where the middle finger of my drawing hand will be on the string. I tiller for equal limb timing, paying no attention to a + tiller. My bows are quiet as a mouse.

[Orion]

Three fingers under bends the limbs unevenly.  So does two finger, but not as much.  The uneven torque on the limbs pulls them out of timing, the greater the difference between the pull on the top and bottom limb, the more they're pulled out of time, and the noisier the shot.  Inordinately heeling the bow, or conversely gripping it hard and tipping it forward, creates the same type of imbalance and increased noise.

If you shot a trigger and placed it right on the center of the string, and didn't vertically torque the bow with your grip, you'd probably have the quietest set-up possible.

All this being said, Stumpkiller's explanation is hard to resist.    

[Yohon]

Roy could you expand on what you are doing with the tree and limb timing? I'm trying to measure limb timing at full draw and adjust (ILF bows) for perfect timing to get things as quiet as possible.

[Roy from Pa]

I assume a 3/8th high nocking point on my bow string and set my tree up with two black vertical lines on the wall which will replicate where the middle finger of my drawing hand will be on the bow string. The right line is setup for tillering for split finger, the left line is for tillering for three under. As I tiller the bow, I want the trees pull rope to travel straight down whichever line I am using, split or the three under. I also have a pulley mounted on the floor and I slide it to align up with whichever line I am using. When the trees pull rope travels straight down the line, that means the limbs are bending in sync, hence equal limb timing. The pull rope will always drift towards the stronger limb, so I remove wood from the stronger limb and work the bow on the tree till the pull rope travels straight down the line. Equal limb timing makes an awesome quiet, accurate, smooth, fast shooting bow. The bow in the video below has been tillered to 29 inches for a three under shooter and the limbs are timed.

   

[Roy from Pa]

Here is a picture of the whole tree setup. The bow is not strung in the picture, I just have the pull rope hanging on the string for the picture.

 

[Yohon]

Thanks Roy! That gets me going in the right direction    

[Wheels2]

Try bare shaft tuning with three under.  Also spray or sprinkle the back of the shelf with powder and see where the fletching is hitting.  

I suspect that you will need to change the nock point and the arrow may be hitting the back edge of the shelf with three under using your current setting.
I shoot three under and it is no louder than other bows shooting split fingers.

[Wheels2]

The bare shaft will likely fly nock high, but the nock could be too high or you are getting a false reading as the nock end is hitting the riser.
Spray the back 9" of the arrow with powder and shoot it to see where it is contacting the rest

[Warden609]

Originally posted by ishoot4thrills:
 

Originally posted by Stumpkiller:
That might be the additional sound of the angels crying when you use three fingers under.

I'm assuming you're joking by throwing that subtle stone at us that shoot 3 under? [/b]

Funny!!

Great info on this thread!!

[BigJim]

Yes, three under puts the limbs out of time...but adjusting the nock point to it's "new" and proper to the shooters position, will put them back in time.
This too  can be altered by the grip. A death grip won't allow the bow to pivot as much so that the limbs can come back in to time.

Set your bow on a tillering board and hook the string wherever you like. If the limbs are pulling unevenly, you can fix this by sliding the string in the hook closer to the tip that is bending the least and you can get the limbs to bend perfectly.

Now change the pivot of the riser down to the heel or back up to the throat and watch what happens to the necessary nock point in order to even out the arch of the limbs. It can still be done, but this should magnify the need for an individual to determine their own proper nock height for each bow.
BigJIm

[olddogrib]

ishoot4thrills,
I'm sure Stumpkiller was referring to the angels mourning that soon-to-be dead animal just down the shaft of the 3U shooter, lol! It's one of the reasons I switched to ILF, I can counteract my heavy ring finger by syncing the limbs back up with negative tiller.

[ishoot4thrills]

Originally posted by olddogrib:
ishoot4thrills,
I'm sure Stumpkiller was referring to the angels mourning that soon-to-be dead animal just down the shaft of the 3U shooter, lol! It's one of the reasons I switched to ILF, I can counteract my heavy ring finger by syncing the limbs back up with negative tiller.

Uh.......right! I'm sure he did.......LOL!