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bubbles in cresting dip

Started by LB243, April 08, 2015, 03:45:00 PM

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LB243

Today I tried my hand at dipping arrows for the first time, on carbon shafts (well cleaned). Things have not gone as smoothly as hoped. I am using bohning fletchlac gloss white stirred thoroughly and did not see any bubbles. I transferred it into my dip tube and started dipping. I tried dipping slow and I tried fast both with the same results of bubbles up and down the crest. The paint did run off the shaft for a good minute after dipping. I am assuming the unopened can may be too thick thus causing the bubbles? as I dont have any local stores that would sell bohning thinner would Methyl ethyl keytone work to thin? or am I going about this all wrong? Thanks all. I am trying my hand at wood shafts soon and want to not ruin those too!!

macbow

Sometimes the stirring causes the bubbles.
Sounds like thinning would help.

I used to have to wait for the bubbles to settle to the top and poke them with a skewer to pop before using.

You might try a little of your MEK on a sample to test.
I think Acetone would work.
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Bohning Fletch Lac is just a lacquer, any lacquer thinner will work. I use the cheap brand in a metal can from Lowes. Yes, it does need to be thinned to give you a good job.  I like it about the same consistency as milk.  If you don't thin it, all of the bubbles will never rise to the surface. Sometimes, depending on the color, this may require dipping 2 or 3 times but it is worth it to have that nice, smooth finish.

I always fill my dip tubes, cap it  and then let it set for at least 30 minutes. This lets all of the bubbles rise to the surface.  It helps to tap on the side of the tube a little bit as well. Then I dip an old junk shaft first to pull any remaining bubbles out before I start dipping the good ones.

STICKBENDER98

You need to thin your dipping paints, I use the bohning thinner, not sure what else would be compatible.  I thin mine so that it stops running and is almost done dripping off between 10-15 seconds. (I try to get around 13 mississippis) If you stir it you will have bubbles, and will have to let the paint sit for a good while to let them float to the top of your dip tube. I use an old piece of arrow shaft and use an up and down motion slowly going to the bottom of the dip tube then back to the top until I get the desired consistency I want adding a little thinner at a time.  Good luck.
Too many bows to list, and so many more I want to try!  Keep the wind in your face, and your broadheads sharp.

LB243


Orion

I thin my Fletch lac at a ratio of one part thinner to two parts paint. Do the same as others to get out the bubbles before dipping.

wapiti

Stirring can induce bubbles into the product. One should always let the lacquer stand or awhile after stirring it. Use either Bohning thinner or MEK. The Bohning product is better as it is the exact chemical make up needed for perfect compatibility. Fletch Laq is a vinyl based lacquer and uses a MEK base. Also adding thinner  and stirring almost always adds bubbles. Unless you have COMPLETELY sealed and air tight containers the product WILL evaporate over time and thinner must be added in small amounts even after achieving the correct consistency.
"Diplomacy is the art of saying 'Nice doggie' until you can find a rock."-Will Rogers

KSdan

Just 2C- I used regular generic lacquer thinner for years with no problems. The paint solvent evaporates quite easily so periodic thinning was always needed.  Tapping the tube, allowing the bubbles to surface, giving it some time, and even touching the surface bubbles all served to get rid of them. I also used the same generic lacquer thinner to soak used shafts and then wipe off the dip to start with a bare shaft.  

Dan in KS
If we're not supposed to eat animals ... how come they're made out of meat? ~anon

Bears can attack people- although fewer people have been killed by bears than in all WWI and WWII combined.

M60gunner

I gave up trying to dip carbons years ago. There was a thread about that time here that mentioned all the above plus other prep methods. I went so far as getting new tube, new paint, sanding finish on shafts. Seems some here thought it was the finish that is applied to the shafts to keep them from sticking in the 3d targets.
I went with the spray paint method that was the most popular at that time. Still heavily vested in Bohning paints and use them on wood and alum. shafts.
Since then, like today I read were guys are having sucess dipping carbons in Fletch Laq paints. Maybe they have changed the paints to be more carbon friendly? Would make sense as carbons have the majority of the arrow market.


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