Just cant get rid of nock high

[goodolboy94]

has anybody else had the problem of bare shaft tuning and no matter what you still get nock high? any suggestions or tips to fix this. I shoot spit finger

Thanks fellow trad archers

[karrow]

mite be a release issue. or are you sure your nock point isn't to low that its kicking your nock upwards off the shelf of the bow.

[dhermon85]

Do you 'cant' your bow a lot? Just curious....

[Msbow]

Are you shooting with two nocking points? If not your arrow could be sliding down the string on release

[Fastltz]

Mine was all release...took me a while but if your height is high and nocks not too tight then really focus on release. Also you could try a feather rest those things are amazing!!

[Mr. fingers]

Try shooting with you cock feather in. 3:00 position instead of 9:00.

[old_goat2]

Yes and I'm not the only one I know and one of the people is a professional trad archer, he doesn't have a release issue either. Shoot some feathers and have somebody watch over your shoulder to watch for porpoising. If it still is doing it with feathers, Check your tiller  to make sure it's correct for the type of release you use, if you shoot three under try two nocking points.

[Pheonixarcher]

What type of medium are you shooting into? Have you shot through paper? Are your bare shafts hitting low or high from your fletched arrows? Certainly try two nock points, no matter if you shoot split or three under. Are there any other tuning issues (stiff or weak indication)? When what should work does not, then try what shouldn't work.

[old_goat2]

Other thing I just remembered, if your not doing this already, hold your bow straight up and down when bare shafting to eliminate the possibility of improper spine disguising itself as porpoising.

[Cyclic-Rivers]

For me, when I was having the issue, it was my release.

I also shoot split and I was not only torquing my draw hand but also putting way too much pressure on my pointer figure.

I made a point to flatten out the draw hand and put most of the pressure on the middle and ring finger and my issue went away immediately. Took months of frustration I hope you figure it out quicker.

[Over&Under]

Originally posted by old_goat2:
Other thing I just remembered, if your not doing this already, hold your bow straight up and down when bare shafting to eliminate the possibility of improper spine disguising itself as porpoising.

What he said...a weak spined arrow will appear nock high if you cant your bow a lot.

[Pine]

I prefer to use fletched arrows to adjust knock height . It helps to have help watching the arrow flight for porpoising .
I also like to start low and work up , start about 1/4" up knocking the arrow under with a good fit . Work it up about 1/16" at a time until the arrow looks like it is smooth .
Now take the same arrow setup and a well mounted 2 blade broadhead mounted horizontally and shoot again , that will show if there is minor adjustment needed .

[dhermon85]

Originally posted by Over&Under:
 

Originally posted by old_goat2:
Other thing I just remembered, if your not doing this already, hold your bow straight up and down when bare shafting to eliminate the possibility of improper spine disguising itself as porpoising.

What he said...a weak spined arrow will appear nock high if you cant your bow a lot. [/b]

Exactly why I asked  

[smokin joe]

I have noticed that with some bows that once I get rid of the nock high while bare shafting the feathers are making a lot of contact once I use fletched shafts. Sometimes so much that the bottom hen feather is hitting my hand. Further, again with some bows, once I get the nock point low enough to correct the bare shaft nock high I am getting a tiny bit of shaft rub on the shelf of the bow -- and that is not good for consistent shooting.

So, I re-tune to get a little bit of nock high with the bare shafts and then check for feather and shaft contact with a fletched shaft. It is an issue of balance to get the perfect compromise for that particular bow, but if I get it just right there is minimal feather wear, no shelf contact and absolutely perfect fletched arrow flight.

In this way, the bare shaft tune for nock height is like that for weak/stiff. For weak/stiff the fletching adds weight to the rear of the shaft and thus stiffens the dynamic spine -- compensating for this with a slightly weak bare shaft works out very well. Likewise, the fletching adds size to the rear of the shaft and it is sometime wise (again depending on the individual bow) to compensate for this addition by bare shafting slightly nock high.

Just my 2 cents worth based on my experiences.

[daveycrockett]

Originally posted by smokin joe:
I have noticed that with some bows that once I get rid of the nock high while bare shafting the feathers are making a lot of contact once I use fletched shafts. Sometimes so much that the bottom hen feather is hitting my hand. Further, again with some bows, once I get the nock point low enough to correct the bare shaft nock high I am getting a tiny bit of shaft rub on the shelf of the bow -- and that is not good for consistent shooting.

So, I re-tune to get a little bit of nock high with the bare shafts and then check for feather and shaft contact with a fletched shaft. It is an issue of balance to get the perfect compromise for that particular bow, but if I get it just right there is minimal feather wear, no shelf contact and absolutely perfect fletched arrow flight.

In this way, the bare shaft tune for nock height is like that for weak/stiff. For weak/stiff the fletching adds weight to the rear of the shaft and thus stiffens the dynamic spine -- compensating for this with a slightly weak bare shaft works out very well. Likewise, the fletching adds size to the rear of the shaft and it is sometime wise (again depending on the individual bow) to compensate for this addition by bare shafting slightly nock high.

Just my 2 cents worth based on my experiences.

BINGO!  

[Butch Speer]

If you're nocking too low, it will bounce off the shelf making it look nock high.

[overbo]

A lot of contact w/ the hand's heel on the riser grip will cause nock high issues. Especially w/ bow designs w/ a lot of pre-load in the limb design. Either try shooting w/ a straight wrist or ask the bowyer to re-tiller the bow to work w/ your shooting style.

[DaveT1963]

I think some of us, like Bryan Ferguson states, may never eliminate all nock high.  I wouldn't (and don't) sweat it as long as my arrows are flying good and grouping well.

[BenBow]

Be sure you're not putting a lot of pressure on the riser with your palm. Ok here is a video that shows the effect of putting pressure low on the bow grip. I intentionally pushed hard with the lower palm of my hand on this video. The bow is 63" nock to nock with equal distance between the top and bottom limb from the string. The nock height is 7/16" above the shelf. I also used and aluminum arrow because they flex more than carbons which helps show the effect. You can also see how much osculation there is in the limbs because the low grip pressure really messes with the limb timing.