Bow tiller and nock point

[Sirius Black]

Does the tiller of a bow effect the nock point? For example, a bow with a 1/8" tiller might need a higher nock point than one with a 1/4" tiller? I've owned bows with 0, 1/8", and 1/4" tillers and this seems to be true, at least for me. I shoot split finger. I'd like to hear others thoughts on this.

[The Whittler]

I am not sure but I would think your nock set would have to do with the arrow and how you release, or maybe nothing what I said.

[Sirius Black]

I just found it interesting that my bows that have a 1/4" positive tiller, I can get away with a lower nock point. But my bows with a 1/8" or less tiller, my nock point always needs to be higher (over half an inch) or I'll get nock low bareshaft flight, off the shelf or elevated rest either one, which I'm getting rather tired of. Makes me want to stick with my longbows and get rid of the recurves, BUT not till I get it figured out first.

[katman]

More positive tiller requires a lower nocking point for me. Example 1/8" positive vs 0 tiller, my zero tiller bows requires a higher nock point to tune.

On most of my bows, I have a 1/8" tiller to 1/8" plus a little.  When I tiller my own, I can sand on it until the bow shoots parallel shafts with a 1/8" nocking point above level.  The correlation is not set in stone, I have seen bows that were happier, for me, with the nocking point higher and still have the 1/8" tiller.  Sometimes guys will get changes in the porpoise by messing with the brace heights, but in those cases there may be more things going on than just nocking point height. Sometimes it is possible to use a lower nocking point by adjusting the arrow's feather angle to the bow, as in shoot cock feather in or rotate the nock. The correct brace will always be the correct brace and the correct nocking point is always the correct nocking point, until someone has you try a tapered carbon shaft, then it needs to go up to split the difference.  For me it is always easier to establish a nocking point by only adjusting the bottom nocking point, I may add a top one later.

I always thought zero tiller bows were better for three under so the nocking point would not have to get too high, I may have that wrong. It is funny how that all works for different folks, it is never one size fits all.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Originally posted by katman:
More positive tiller requires a lower nocking point for me. Example 1/8" positive vs 0 tiller, my zero tiller bows requires a higher nock point to tune.

2X

[Sirius Black]

Thanks guys!  I think it's bows with a 1/4" positive tiller for me from now on. I like a 3/8" nock point over a 5/8"!

I have zero tiller on my longbows, and my nocking points are 3/4" high, and I shoot split finger.

Bisch

[BenBow]

I have just the opposite outcome but I shoot with a lot of pressure low on my palm. This puts way more stress on the lower limb with a pistol grip bow. I've been changing my grips to a more flat style and can use a lower nock height that way. Otherwise I have to go to negative tiller. How you grip the bow throws the rules of thumb out the window.

[Trond]

Maybe a dumb question, but how can I check the tiller on my bow?

[ddauler]

Measure the distance between the string and belly side of the limbs above and below the riser. If even the measurements will be the same. Positive the top limb bends a little more usually 1/8 - 1/4.