Spine and tip/broad head question

[rscornutt]

First, I hope it's ok to post this question here. If not, please forgive the new guy and feel free to move or delete as needed.

The specifics: I own two recurves, a Samick Sage and a Samick Red Stag I one piece. I use the Sage for packing in and out of camp sites and the Red Stag is my hunter. Both are 40# @28", but I draw a little over 28.75", so I figure I'm actually drawing around 42#.  

I shoot Easton Traditional carbons from 3Rivers, 400 spine, at 9.1 gpi with 125 gr. field tips/broad heads.

Here's my quandary. While the arrows shoot well enough, and I have taken small and medium game with them, I feel like they may be a tad too stiff to really close my groups up. I'm in north Alabama, and my max shot on deer is 25 yards (maybe 35 on a big deer with a perfect broadside shot).

I'm thinking that moving to a 150 grain field tip/broad head will help decrease the spine and help give me a little better accuracy at my yardage.

My other option is to go to the Gold Tip 35/55 and stay with a 125 grain head. However, I have my dad and grandfather's voodoo in my head that says go with the heavier broad head and stiffer arrow.

I welcome any opinions and advice. I'm doing ok with what I have, but I want to do better than "ok."  I haven't maimed anything or had anything get away.

[Biathlonman]

I'm guessing going to the 3555 and 150 grain head wouldn't hurt you a bit. You need more then 150 on the front of the .400.  250-300 would get you close.

[kevsuperg]

i would think your current arrows would be alittle on the stiff side.
 i would move up to the 150's or maybe even 160-175. rather than buy new arrows.
 couldnt hurt.

[stonewall]

My son shoots a bear kmag 52 lbs at his 28inch draw and shoots gold tip 400s with 250 grains up front to get them to fly straight.I shoot 600 gold tips out of my 45lb at 26 inch long bow cut to 28 inches with 250gr up front. I would thing that you are way over spined.

[Bladepeek]

I have to agree with stonewall. You don't mention arrow length, but I think even full length those would be stiff with anything less than 200 gr points.

I'm shooting full length 500 spine with 175 up front and they are mighty close out of my 43 - 46# bows.

Try REALLY bumping that front end weight up and see if they don't fly better.

[rscornutt]

Sorry for leaving out arrow length.  Arrows are 30.25" from valley of the nock.

Those .400's are way too stiff for 42#, esp if they are cut down to 30.5"!

Bisch

[rscornutt]

Thanks. I suspected they were too stiff, even after using them.

I appreciate the feedback.

[shedhunta]

Check out threads on Bare shaft tuning.  I agree your arrows are way too stiff.

[dnurk]

I know not everyone on this site finds it super accurate but I personally have had tremendous success setting up arrow/tip combinations using the calculator

Here is a link if you care to try it
   spine calculator

[Orion]

Agree that the .400s are too stiff.  But you may not want to put 200 grains or more up front.  Doing so will soften the dymanic spine and make them shoot better, but it will also increase the trajectory.
35-55s with lighter heads will also work.  Luckily, you have time before season.  Before investing in new shafts, try some different point weights with your existing arrows to see if you like it.  Good luck.

[Sam Mashni]

I Shoot Dryad longbows, 48#&50#@26". I also shoot the Trad arrows in 400 spine cut to 28" with 250 grn screw in fps. Total weight is 550 grns. They group bareshaft  and fletched. Perfect bullet holes in paper as long as my release is consistent!

[Sam Mashni]

I meant to add that 250/300 grain points with your longer shafts and lighter draw should do the trick.

[katman]

http://www.acsbows.com/bareshaftplaning.html

Check them out easily bareshafting