A new arrow just rocked my world, now I need help

[Cyclic-Rivers]

If you cannot go up in point weight enough to make the 250's work, try a  longer arrow and try again.

[MagicBH]

Originally posted by Cyclic-Rivers:
If you cannot go up in point weight enough to make the 250's work, try a  longer arrow and try again.

That is the plan.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Originally posted by MagicBH:
I just watched this. Makes sense to me.

       

This video really simplifies the process.... But... i believe you want to keep those shafts just a wee bit on the weak side while bare shaft tuning because the added weight of the feathers in the rear will stiffen things up a bit...... If you are going to use wraps on your arrows, you should put those on before bare shafting.....

Once you cut a shaft too short, you can't add it back on. The only thing you can do then is thin down the strike plate and add a lot of tip weight.

If they are still a bit weak after fletching, its much easier to shim your strike plate out a fuzz rather than going back to the saw.

Another thing that a lot of guys overlook while bare shaft tuning is watching the arrow flight and paying attention to point of impact left to right, and focus too much on how the arrows are sticking out of the target.... if you bare shaft at different distances say 10 15 & 20 yards or more you can watch the arrow flight and see how spine effects the point of impact a lot better.

Some guys will even take a fletched shaft and cut the feathers off leaving the quill glued to the shaft while bare shaft tuning to get the right tail weight established......

You can make this process as simple or as complicated as you wish. But the biggest thing to remember is that on carbon shafts the length difference has much more effect on the arrow spine than just adding tip weight. Once an arrow has been bare shaft tuned correctly, you'll find you can change the tip weight by quite a bit with no effect on arrow spine or good arrow flight at all.

[JohnV]

People forget that the extent the riser is cut past center shot has a major impact on what spine arrow shaft will fly best.  Not all bows have the same degree of center shot.

[old_goat2]

Originally posted by JohnV:
People forget that the extent the riser is cut past center shot has a major impact on what spine arrow shaft will fly best.  Not all bows have the same degree of center shot.

And they also forget how much draw length changes the equation!!!!! What works for a guy at 28" of draw on a given weight will be way way weak for me at 31" at the same given weight!!!!

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Originally posted by old_goat2:
 

Originally posted by JohnV:
People forget that the extent the riser is cut past center shot has a major impact on what spine arrow shaft will fly best.  Not all bows have the same degree of center shot.

And they also forget how much draw length changes the equation!!!!! What works for a guy at 28" of draw on a given weight will be way way weak for me at 31" at the same given weight!!!! [/b]

Excellent points... both of them...  

[MagicBH]

UPDATE

I put the 50 gr inserts in the 250's with a 145 gr head. They spine out just a bit too stiff but WAY better.

I have 100 gr inserts arriving tomorrow from 3 rivers. I have a feeling this might make me right on the money or just a tad weak.

Yay for not having to buy new arrows. Might have some 350's for sale though.

[MagicBH]

Final Update:

Added the 100 grain inserts to the 250's and with the 145gr head they bare shaft straight. I know a little bit weak would be better but after swapping out the stock inserts for the 100 grains on my quad fletch they fly like darts.

Even better than the 350's flew last week.

Amazing.

Lesson to be learned: BARE SHAFT TUNE YOUR ARROWS

[katman]

Great, a good tune with high foc flies very well and penetrates. Have fun watching your groups shrink.