Odd Arrow Flight

[Archer1977]

I still feel I am somewhat new to this, but I am getting the hang of it. I recently switched to a lighter spine arrow and am noticing some odd flight. I bare shafted them to the best of my ability. But, after putting a wrap and fletching them I often see the arrow looking as if it is flying sideways with the point to the left looking at it as it flies away from me. But it impacts straight. Sometimes they fly straight or I do not notice. So I am guessing it is something in my form.

Any ideas what this may be caused by? It is not arrow paradox I wouldn't think.

[TradBrewSC]

It's hard to say but, if it is your form I would guess you are sometimes plucking the string vs. pulling through, or torquing the handle in some way.

I catch myself not pulling through the string sometimes and will get some odd arrow flight.

[Possum Head]

Nice to see someone relatively new to the game shoot a nice bow such as a Dwyer. So did you switch to 500 spine? What point weights do you have available and how short are your new shafts?

[McDave]

Just to eliminate the obvious, you weren't shooting in a cross wind, were you?

[SELFBOW19953]

If using a wrap, shouldn't you bareshaft with the wrap on? Doesn't the wrap stiffen the spine of the arrow?

[ChuckC]

Yes, first cross off the wind.  Wind and feathered shafts sometimes makes magical things happen.
ChuckC

[Archer1977]

Well I generally know if I am going to like something before I do it. Switched from compound to trad. I figured I may as well get something nice.

 I switched from a 400 to a 500. There was no crosswind. I do feel sometimes my release is less than perfect. They are 30" with 125 points, 75 insert. I had read that cap wraps were not significant enough to make a difference.

I think it may be my form because sometimes they appear to fly true. I suppose torquing and bad releases could cause this?

[McDave]

If you don't yet have good form, you probably won't be able to bare shaft your arrows very well.  But as long as they aren't way out in left field somewhere, you should still be able to shoot them as you continue to learn.

I recommend you continue to work on your form and not worry too much about the arrows at this point.  It really helps to have someone who knows what they're doing look at you shoot and make suggestions.  Rod Jenkins puts on clinics, Rick Welch has a school, Arne Moe analyzes videos that people send in to TradGang.  Any of these people or a lot of other people I don't know about could help you jump-start your shooting.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Yup.... If you are just getting used to this it's wise to get your form consistency established prior to fine tuning arrows.....

Once you get to where you can start grouping 3-4 arrows in a 2" circle at 12-15 yards, THEN think about bare shaft tuning.... to do so without a consistent anchor and clean release is a waste of time.... same thing with paper tuning.

Jumping from a 400 to 500 spine is a pretty big jump..... btw... best to bare shaft with your wraps already on the shaft to. It typically shows a bit stronger in spine.

check out these videos... great stuff in these.

First one is Arne Moe. His introduction to the rotational draw has helped a lot of beginning archers get off on the right track, as well as seasoned archers who are trying to learn to use good back tension and get better consistancy.

   

This next one is an introduction to archery that is excellent. Jimmy Blackmon has a bunch of excellent videos on a lot of different aiming styles and a lot of good stuff on form....

Seriously bro....check this guy out.

 

[Archer1977]

Thanks for the input fellas. I know me bare shafting was a long shot, but I seemed very inconsistent when shooting the 400s. After switching to 500s I have more consistent groupings and I think they are better matched to my bow. When I bare shafted I shot quite a few times and took the majority of what I saw. I will keep working.