Arrow Spine Long Draw Question

[Parsnip]

Hi All!

First, I am always amazed at the wealth of information and generous sharing of knowledge on this site.  Thanks all.

I have a question about arrow stiffness and tuning.

I'm shifting  into traditional from wheel bow hunting.  I draw  roughly 31" on the recurve.  I've got a 1961 66" bear that is 40#@28.  I think I am drawing more like 45 but dont have a scale.

The shop sold me 6 easton xx75s marked 340 or 2315.  They seem really stiff to me.  I went from 100 gr field points to 145, and they feel a little better, but they still seem stiff, and are landing left of where I feel they should.  Should I keep adding weight to the tip, or are they hopelessly stiff?  I was thinking of getting some 175 heads, which would more or less match the eskimo broadheads I was going to use for hunting.  (and put my total arrow weight at around 616).  I saw some folks here say that easton charts are 2 sizes too stiff for trad gear.  

So, keep adding weight, or get softer arrows?  If so, which ones?  (and aluminum or carbon?)

Thanks for any and all advice.

[moebow]

I think 340s are way too stiff especially with 100 grain points.  You COULD weaken them with more point weight but for just starting, I'd recommend 1916s (first choice) or 2016s (second choice).  START with 125 grain points and go from there.

I also recommend NOT getting too wrapped up in trying to tune much more until you have your shot sequence refined.  You'll just spend money and chase your tail for a while.

Arne

PS MOST shops that try to outfit a trad shooter will come up with WAY too stiff a shaft.

[grayfeather]

if I was shooting a 65# compound bow I would try 340.try a 1916 Easton platinum .Easton  spine on carbon arrows are off by 20 # ,goldtip more on the heavey side .or try a goldtip hunter 500 or 400 different lengths . bare shaft first.

[Orion]

I agree that 340s may be too stiff, but you do have a long draw length, and, given that you want to shoot a heavier point for hunting, why not try that first before you invest in more shafts/arrows.  A lot less expensive, and it may work.

If you're truly drawing 31 inches, my guess is you're pulling closer to 47-48# at your draw length.

[Producer]

Just a thought but I would try useing 100 grain brass inserts before I bought new arrows along with the 145 heads you already have. That might work and if they are still a little stiff go the 175 heads. It is all part of the fun.

[Jim Wright]

I am not trying to be critical but get someone to help you find your actual as opposed to "roughly 31 inch" draw length. It will help in selecting the proper spine arrow for you.

[BDann]

Like Arne said, I wouldn't worry too much about arrows yet.  As you get your form nailed down you will likely gain some draw length.  I started shooting trad with a 30 1/2" draw, and when my form improved I gained an inch of draw.  You can fine tune your arrow selection then, it will save you $ on buying arrows.

By the way, I've got a 1961 Bear Kodiak Special that is 38@28 and it really likes GT Trads 55/75 with 175 up front.  For what it's worth....

[drewsbow]

yeah very stiff a 500 spine should work

[Parsnip]

All,

Thank you so much for this.  Very, very helpful.  Should have mentioned: these are uncut, so they are 32" long.  I think what I'm going to do is play with some inserts and some heavier field tips to see how they may change things (cheap, easy, fun), but mostly I'm going to work on my form and shot sequence.  Down the road, I may get less stiff arrows if I think that these ones are still getting in the way of my performance.

Thanks again all.  This place is amazing.