Cost/benefit with longbows

[Mike Vines]

Originally posted by Plain Noel:


Running up hills is my actual training program.

Noel

Seeing as you're from California, the above statement sounds as though you are baiting them.  HA!!!  Last year when we were in CA, I thought about going for a jog and remembered that Cougars love joggers, so I went back to bed instead.

When it comes to picking a Longbow that's right for you, shoot as many different kinds that you can and see which one feels best in your hands.  

Once you find the bow that has the perfect grip for you, you WILL know it.  Everyone's taste and preferences are different, that is why there are so many manufacturers out there.

Welcome to the site and keep us posted on how you are doing.

[Doc Nock]

Originally posted by GDPolk:
Grip geometry is likely to be the single biggest factor for if you can shoot a bow well.  After you find a grip that you just fall in love with, most other bows will not seem just right any more.

GD and Mike Vines both said a mouthful!

I had that "grip" problem for decades!  Tried one custom after another (well, not like some guys here who buy and sell as a hobby), but enough that it broke my wallet and my spirit.

I then finally found someone who took time to want video of me shooting, diagnosed that being self taught, I'd developed a style that had "excessive wrist rotation" and that bowyer altered the grip to fit my style perfectly.

Up till then, I tried to self diagnose and got FAT GRIPS that changed the heel pressure of my grip and made my bow recoil down and to the right toward the 5:00 position...which affected both consistency and accuracy...

Custom can be just choosing fancy woods, or custom can be having a truly custom grip to suit your hand!

As suggested, trying various bows, watching how the bow reacts at release (should move rather directly forward) can help you understand what works with your release and grip or that you have some coaching to learn how to shoot better and more consistently...

Stick bows are simple, but there are things that do affect how they react and respond...

Take your time and enjoy the ride... it ain't an overnight thing... (as the song goes...)  

[Sweetwater]

Great thread. Gave me good perspective on the quality of some less expensive recurves like the Samick Sage or Journey. I think this just helped me save some money.  

Plain Noel, I like how you've approached traditional archery with slow and thoughtful progress. I'm new as well and this approach seems wise.

[Sweetwater]

I also look forward to seeing where the adventure takes you next.

[JohnV]

You can purchase a good used custom built bow for about 50-70% of the new retail price.  I suggest purchasing a used 40# bow to shoot until you are comfortable with the weight and then sell it and go up to 45-50 pounds in draw weight for the actual hunt.

[Plain Noel]

Originally posted by Mike Vines:
 

Originally posted by Plain Noel:


Running up hills is my actual training program.

Noel

Seeing as you're from California, the above statement sounds as though you are baiting them.  HA!!!  Last year when we were in CA, I thought about going for a jog and remembered that Cougars love joggers, so I went back to bed instead.[/b]

Well, now that's pretty good. I live across the street from a wilderness park where a mountain biker got the chomp about ten years ago. In fact that's where I do most of my running. I usually carry a .357 with me on those trips, though I doubt it will help, considering the way mountain lions usually hunt. I suspect I fear mountain lions out of proportion to their actual danger. Maybe that's part of the crazy idea to go get one with a bow.

[Plain Noel]

Beyond that, thank you all for your replies and personal notes. You've given me a great deal to think about and I suspect I will now be able to make a better decision about my next bow. In particular, the post about draw weight really got me thinking. After looking through the thread about kills with 40-45 pound bows, it is hard to think of a reason why I need more than that.

Warm regards to all,

Noel

[Nativestranger]

Remember this: What you can draw isn't necessarily what you can fully control. I can easily draw and shoot a 55# longbow. But it's not until I drop the weight right down to 40# that I can shoot in full control of the bow. Meaning draw back to anchor, full expansion, no slouch, hold rock steady on the bow arm. Release only when I want to with back tension no creep, no pluck....so on.

[damascusdave]

I paid 150 bucks for one of my best and fastest longbows...nothing wrong with buying a used one...think about what those Samick bows are coming out the door of the factory for...they have to be taking some short cuts

DDave

[damascusdave]

You are right to fear cougars...they simply lack any knowledge of proper etiquette when hunting

DDave

[Plain Noel]

Just for the folks who asked for an update...

Went with a 50# HH Wesley Special. Almost bought a Toelke whip - great reviews here and elsewhere and doubtless a fantastic bow - but the HH stuff strikes a chord with me and I'm sure I can figure out what to do with it.

I was a bit worried about the jump from 30# to 50# but have been regularly working with a "Bowtrainer" and have gotten to the point where 60# is fine and 70# is manageable. 50# should be adequate for anything I want to hunt and pulling the bow has become essentially a non-issue. I still have lots and lots of work to do before I can run far enough and shoot straight enough, but God willing I have the time to do it. Meanwhile, the local rabbit population needs to start worrying.

And thanks all for the intelligent and thoughtful posts, which have been very helpful.

Regards,

Noel

[old_goat2]

Yes in most cases, you are getting a much more efficient bow and nicer looking! Yes faster bows just miss faster if you miss but when you jump up 15-20fps in speed, distance misjudging is considerably more forgiving in my opinion!!! There are some really nice looking bows out there that shoot average, but very very few of them command their price by looks alone, a bowyer can only command a high price for a reason and stay in business!!!!

[Ulysseys]

It's like anything in life....will a black widow make something more dead than a Bear Montana?  No, but shoot both and you'll see why the Widow costs more and holds its value.  Sure some of the price is supply/demand but on top of the quality you also get numerous custom fit options.  Of course the Samick will work, people are killing things with selfbows, but if you can swing the cash a custom provides a heightened shooting experience, which will always make me more accurate.

[Ulysseys]

Good call on the HH also    

[Sacred mt]

"Don't leave your gun at home...Son..."

[bowfanatik]

Originally posted by Sacred mt:
"Don't leave your gun at home...Son..."

 http://www.shop.bigjimsbowcompany.com/Used-Bows_c51.htm

[LBR]

I know it's late, but...

I've been primarily a longbow shooter for the past 20 years (LBR = Long Bows Rule).  All that means is I like longbows, but I have shot a lot of them.

My experience is longbows can vary a LOT, and more expensive doesn't mean a better bow.  Actually the two most expensive ones I've shot were my least favorites...but the really cheap ones were pretty lousy too.  I have a self bow that will out-shoot (out-perform) both.

Figuring out what you like is a biggie.  Some longbows are practically recurves.  Some are very heavy.  Others are little more than a stick and string and feather light.  Then there's all those that are in-between.

My personal favorite longbow design is a mild to moderate deflex/reflex, 66" long, semi-pistol grip, small riser made with heavy wood.  At least it is for now...subject to change.