How do I know if my bow is built for fast flight?

[dhill1520]

I have a Jack Kempf kwyk styk with antler tips. How can I find out if I can use fast flight strings?

Best way would be to call the bowyer, if that is possible. I would think if it has antler tips it would be low stretch string compatible. Maybe someone with a better knowledge of those bows will chime in with more info.

Bisch

[restless]

When in doubt default to B-50,

[Brock]

Should be okay but I go straight to the bowyer when in doubt...otherwise I use B50/55.

[damascusdave]

If you take a look at those tips you will see that Jack is one of those bowyers who gives you a layer of phenolic with the antler both belly and backside...you can shoot any string you want with it...btw if it has the semi static limbs you will likely find that it will be quietest at a rather low brace height...mine gets quieter as I lower the brace height

DDave

[DanielB89]

This may not be everytime, but in my opinion, if it has bone(horn) overlays, it is FF.

[dhill1520]

Thanks everyone for the responses!

[**DONOTDELETE**]

It depends on how deep the string grooves are filed, type of overlay material, and the shape of the string grooves too. A lot of the older recurves had groves filed into the side of the limbs with no overlays at all. With those you shouldn't use FF material on.

Some tip overlays are thin and the string groove is filed clear through it right to the glass. FF string can split glass that isn't reinforced....

Do you have a photo of your tips?

[Steve Kendrot]

Related question. Is fast flight compatibility determined solely by the tips? Or is limb design/material/age a factor as well. Do padded loops help prevent damage? Can limb tips be replaced/ reinforced to make a bow Low stretch compatible?

Interested in knowing if my older bear bows are compatible with low stretch strings.

[LBR]

Steve, as far as I know there's been no controlled studies to answer your questions.  I'm no bowyer, so take this for what it's worth.

How the string grooves are cut makes a huge difference.  Cut at a 90 degree angle, the string may shear down each side.  That is the problem with a lot of older bows.  

Limb material and age probably will be a factor, especially the glue that was used, but that's just a guess.

Padded loops add surface area.  May or may not be a big help, but it won't hurt and it makes for a quieter shot with recurves.

Tips can be replaced and string grooves modified.  This may make the bow ok, may not.

I know there are people who get away with shooting high performance materials on old bows.  There are lots of variables to consider here.  The condition of the bow, draw length, draw weight, arrow weight, etc. etc. etc.

FWIW, I use HMPE materials on my self bows.  One has antler tips, one has horn, and one has osage overlays.  All have been shot a lot.  So far, so good, except the antler tends to pop off (glue problem, not a string problem).

One thing is for sure.  If the bow fails and has a HMPE string on it, nearly everyone is going to blame the string.

Personally, I'd stick with B-55 on bows not rated for HMPE materials.

Chad

[Steve Kendrot]

Thanks Chad. I'll probably play it safe and stick with B50.

[30coupe]

Originally posted by Steve Kendrot:


Interested in knowing if my older bear bows are compatible with low stretch strings.

If by older Bear bow you mean '60s - '70s Grayling bow, I would say no to the fast flight rated. I would stick with Dacron, especially if it's a bow you value.

I've padded the string loops with B50 and used D97 on non fastflight bows with no issues, but I would hesitate to do so on a collectible bow.