One thing to think about when bare shafting woodies, is paint vs stain for caps will add weight to the nock end which will affect dynamic spine! as does adding the feathers. My test shafts all are non caps, my hunting arrows all have painted caps and crests. I had to make a special set of test arrows for myself or those I was painting shafts for. And used the un painted test shafts for those I capped with stain.
Nice to see Ken's video....bare shafting seems to have received a bad rap the last 10-15 years on the forums since OL posted the group testing method. They are all great tools to use for various stages. Group testing for me confirms or denies my fletched arrows are doing what my bare shafts told me in my initial stage of testing. I generally go to paper 2nd than on to bare shaft planning to confirm last...using all 3 methods of getting an arrow to fly right....when you nail it you'll have a real hummer. When you don't, you'll be fighting it like I have been lately (mostly due to lack of shooting these last 4 years), depending how far out you are. Going this route imho is worth the trouble. As you gain experience you can skip stages to a degree....but starting out I wouldn't!
Ken mentioned a vertical torque by shooters...I've noticed horizontal (in myself as well). That will really throw you for a loop playing with spines!!! A video from above shows it immediately!
Lastly the verticle problems are generally some form of relation to bow tiller, or the way you're gripping the bow (heeling vs high wrist). The amount of pressure and where you place it affects the tiller of the bow, which in turn will affect your nocking point placement. I learned this the hard way going from a straight wrist Asbell recurve guy to a heel the heck out of it, than on to a more middle approach over the years. Take a kids bow and hell the heck out of it, than straight wrist it, you'll see what I'm talking about. Now shoot a bare shaft out of it and watch the humdinger you're going to be screwing with.
I've had bows I could never get the vertical out of...if you have one like this, try heeling the heck out of it and see if that changes things. If not try a more straight wrist approach. Its a bow design, tiller or combination of them and your style of shooting form not jiving!
Topic: Bare Shaft Tune (Read 352 times)
