single bevel woes

[Tedd]

1" x 30" Harbor Freight belt sander and a selection of 400 to 1000 grit belts. They make leather strop belts 1"x 30" for it also.  Finish with the leather strop belt w polishing compound. I don't nock the burr off the back until I get to the leather strop. The heads get mirror smooth and dangerously sharp effortlessly. I had to do 12 new ones the just before going un a hunting trip 2 weeks ago. I did all 12 in about an hour. But until the last 3 I was swapping belts and doing each head to completion before that. I had intended to make a jig to maintain the correct angle but found it unnecessary. With a little finesse and marking the factory angle with a sharpie, you can easily keep an accurate original angle. I made some poor shots recently and attribute recovered deer to the penetration properties of the grizzly heads and extreme sharpness.
Tedd

[MnFn]

I have a bunch of Grizzly's; I have not found one that I can't sharpen with a file yet. Maybe I dont have any old ones.

Get a burr, then lightly remove it.
When I am removing it, I do not push directly into the blade, more like quartering  into it.

It's probably  all wrong, but I get them sharp.

[Jock Whisky]

If you have the old ones there is a trick that I learned on a video from "King Would Be". The non bevel side of some of the old broadheads needed to be filed flat. At a micro level it could be a bit wavy which would make sharpening nearly impossible. I tried it and was amazed to see the file take metal off some of the flat surface but not other parts of it. Once I got the back side filed flat I went to work on the beveled side. I used a felt marker to show me what metal was being removed, kept the bevel angle constant and finished with a leather strop and jewellers rouge.  I couldn't believe how sharp I got them.

[achigan]

FWIW. I just bought a Workshop electric sharpener and can finally get my blades as sharp as I want. It was a major humbling as a bu'suns mate on a tin can to not be able to get the cutting blade on my knife SHARP sharp. I took consolation in the posts of much more experienced and accomplished hunters and outdoorsmen than I who said they also are challenged in this aspect of their life. I just got the basic model and could not be happier with it.

[caleb7mm]

thanks guys! im sending them off! I look forward to having them back ready to hunt.

[the rifleman]

Id take Zipper bows up on their generous offer.  Once the grind is close to being right the kme system is the solution.  Ron at kme is a great guy and as others have said will literally talk you through shaving sharp results.

[Trenton G.]

I've got a borrowed KME right now and an trying it out on some Grizzlys but I'm having trouble getting them super sharp. What angle do you guys sharpen your grizzlys at?

[SELFBOW19953]

Ron at KME told me the best way to sharpen the older Grizzlies is to change the bevel angle to match the newer ones.  I use a curved tooth file like the ones used in auto body work.  Secure the file to a board and put a thin piece of wood the same height as the file flush with edge of the file.  Secure the old style BH in the KME clamp.  Use the same motion as if you're sharpening the BH, but on the file, keeping the roller parallel to the file (it doesn't roll but slides, creating the black line as in the photo below).  Continue until the angle of the bevel matches the KME.  Now just sharpen on the KME and you have sharp Grizzlies.  (This is my explanation of Ron's idea.)