Inexpensive carbons

[southernarcher]

Which inexpensive plain black carbon shafts are spined close to a heritage 150?

[Brian Halbleib]

"Inexpensive" and "carbon arrow" never seem to go together. Unless you consider their durability and cost in the long run.

-Brian
 www.bowyersjournal.com

[Mudd]

I've been away from traditonal(actually all archery) for some time now so I'm in the dark about about anything that's not wood or aluminum. Could someone direct me to some material that would bring me up to snuff. How do you figure out everything you need to do to get the right arrow the right lenght for the bow you're shooting? I remember with woodies I started with spine then started cutting the shaft a little at a time until it hit the sweet spot. That method would seem terribley time consuming if you had to glue up an insert each time. Thanks! I need the readers digest version.PLEASE!
God bless,Mudd

[Ol Man]

Go to BassPro and buy their RedHead 250's  About 49.00/doz.

[snag]

Sipsey Archery...blems $39.95, non-blems $44.95 GT5575 and GT7595. I buy the blems and they work great. Just started fletching some 7595s from them.

[wildcat]

last year i bought some carbon express 30-50's at walmart on clearance $2 each.

[BobW]

Originally posted by Mudd:
 I remember with woodies I started with spine then started cutting the shaft a little at a time until it hit the sweet spot. That method would seem terribley time consuming if you had to glue up an insert each time.

You got it.... still do that.  Savings is reportedly in durability

BobW

[Jason R. Wesbrock]

According to CE's web site, the 150's spine at .487 and weight 10 gr/inch. Getting the spine you need in a different shaft isn't a problem, but matching the weight may be difficult.

Beman ICS Venture 500's (.500 spine) are less than $50/dozen, but they only weigh 7.3 grains/inch. You could always more up to a 400 (.400 spine) and use a heavier point if need be.

[Zmonster]

Originally posted by snag:
Sipsey Archery...blems $39.95, non-blems $44.95 GT5575 and GT7595. I buy the blems and they work great. Just started fletching some 7595s from them.

What he said. You cant beat that price, or their service.  

[jbb]

I like those CX Heritage shafts a lot.  Not saying they are better than any other shaft, it is just I know what I am getting with them.  If you search around, you can usually find them for $60 or so for a dozen shafts.  That isn't too bad when you consider how few you break.

[bentpole]

Call John at Sipsey River.

[Zmonster]

Originally posted by jbb:
I like those CX Heritage shafts a lot.  Not saying they are better than any other shaft, it is just I know what I am getting with them.  If you search around, you can usually find them for $60 or so for a dozen shafts.  That isn't too bad when you consider how few you break.

Where did you find them for $60 a dz?   :eek:  The best Ive found them has been $70dz.

Thanks

[hickstick]

Originally posted by Mudd:
...I remember with woodies I started with spine then started cutting the shaft a little at a time until it hit the sweet spot. That method would seem terribley time consuming if you had to glue up an insert each time. Thanks! I need the readers digest version.PLEASE!
God bless,Mudd

mudd...most carbon arrows use press fit nocks that insert into the shafting by hand.  most guys glue in the insert, bare shaft, and pull the nock out, cut a little off, press the nock back in, and bare shaft again.  once you get the bare shafts flying right, then fletch.

make sense?

also....I wasn't sure I was gonna like carbons either, so was looking to start cheap and bought the clearance CX terminators 4560s sold at wally world for a couple bucks each.  found that the length they sell them 'precut/assembled' was far too stiff for my mid 50s longbow and recurve.  ended up tinkering with point weight until I broke the stiffness barrier.  ended up with 200 grain field points and 100 grain brass inserts.  I just made some home made lighting nocks following links on another thread here and if I wasn't sure they flew dead-straight before,  I am now  

(now using 125 grn WWs with 75 grn steel adaptors for hunting so they match the 200grn field points.

[snag]

"Hickstick"........I love that handle! One of the best I've seen!

[BobW]

Originally posted by Zmonster:
 

Originally posted by jbb:
I like those CX Heritage shafts a lot.  Not saying they are better than any other shaft, it is just I know what I am getting with them.  If you search around, you can usually find them for $60 or so for a dozen shafts.  That isn't too bad when you consider how few you break.

Where did you find them for $60 a dz?    :eek:   The best Ive found them has been $70dz.

Thanks [/b]

My best for 250's has been $68 - maybe that was the "or so" ($8) part of his quote......  :D

[hickstick]

thanks....wish I could say there was some grand intent....but the really wasn't.   about 10 years ago when signing up for another trad archery board that will remain nameless   ....I was making shagbark hickory bows and didn't feel typing in hickorystick each time  

[southernarcher]

Thanks guys.I was actually meaning less expensive than the heritage shafts.I'm shooting them now from one of my bows,but wanted some less expensive black ones to fling.

[ejes]

Originally posted by Mudd:
I've been away from traditonal(actually all archery) for some time now so I'm in the dark about about anything that's not wood or aluminum. Could someone direct me to some material that would bring me up to snuff. How do you figure out everything you need to do to get the right arrow the right lenght for the bow you're shooting? I remember with woodies I started with spine then started cutting the shaft a little at a time until it hit the sweet spot. That method would seem terribley time consuming if you had to glue up an insert each time. Thanks! I need the readers digest version.PLEASE!
God bless,Mudd

There is a trick I use to keep from having to glue and remove inserts with carbons for trimming to spine:

1.  Take a plastic grocery bag, or other piece of plastic like that, and put it over the end of the insert that goes down into the shaft,

2.  Put the insert into the arrow with the bag still over the insert,

3.  Pull the arrow from the bag and trim the excess plastic from the insert/arrow.

This puts plastic between the insert and the inner wall of the carbon arrow and causes enough friction to keep the insert intact for arrow tuning and trimming with field points.  Usually this works so well, I have to use pliers on the field tip to pull them back out.  Works like a charm and I have yet to loose an insert or tip in my target as long as it is designed to shoot field points into.  Just give the field point a pull with your fingers to make sure it is seated well before you shoot.  When I finally get to where I want to be, I glue them in.    

[Mudd]

I had a feeling that there was some way to get around glueing before finalizing the testing process. Looks like I've now got a couple of choices to use. Good ole American ingenunity!
Thanks!
God bless,Mudd

[Biathlonman]

We just had a Sportsman's Warehouse open here in town.  I can get 6 Gold Tip arrows, fletched with feathers, and cut to my length for ~33 dollars before tax.  That seems to be the best deal I've found unless you can fletch your own.  They are the cheap expedition hunters, but they seem to fly real well for me.  I'm guessing the 3555 would be comparable to the Heritage 150.