Nock high

[Chris Pharr]

Ok guys, like the subject says, I'm getting a constant nock high issue. Same results regardless of tuning method (bareshaft and paper).  
Left to right, 1/2" high, 9/16, & 5/8" on paper. I'm pretty confident my spine is good now, switched to a 340 shaft @ 30" BOP with 285 gr point, 100 gr insert, and roughly 11 gr aluminum footing. Shooting my Bear Grizzly with the limbs vertical so as not to confuse myself.  Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Chris

[Hermon]

Have you tried adjusting your nocking point?  Either it is too high, or too low and giving you a false nock high as it is hitting on the shelf.  What is your nock height set at now?

[Chris Pharr]

That's what I meant by the 1/2", 9/16", & 5/8"; left shot thru paper is with nock set at 1/2" high, etc, etc. Yes, I've adjusted the nock height, started with the nock point @ 1" high and worked down to these shots. They're as close as I've been able to get. Also tried adjusting brace height a bit, but I like the way the bow feels when it's set at its current setting, 8-3/8", which also according to my Bear owners manual is about the max (manual gives range of 7.5-8.5").
I shoot split fingers, draw length is 29".
Bow is 55lb Grizzly,

[sticksnstones]

You've gotta be close. If you shoot split and use small diameter shafts you can bring it down a bit further. What is your shaft and shooting style?
Thom

[elknutz]

If you are shooting split I would lower the nock point under a half. I would also try a second nock under the arrow as well if stll having problems. Worth a try,

[PennDude]

Boy, I had the same darn problem with bare shafts.  I eventually gave up and fletched my arrows.  I shot through paper yesterday and got a bullet hole.

[Chris Pharr]

Shooting store branded gold tip 340's, 5/16"diameter. I use a secondary, lower nock point as well.
 
Best I can shoot at 25 yds. I've got 2 broad heads(right of bare shaft), 1 bare shaft, and 1 field point. That was with nock point set at 5/8"

[BHall]

I may not have the answer for you but I found the answer for me.  I was also constantly getting nock high on paper or bare shaft.  I watched a video with Ken Beck (masters of the barebow 2 maybe?).  He talks about what a challenge it can be to fix nock high.  Once you go through all the standard adjustments (adjusting nock point) it could be a form issue.  He talked about some guys only fix it with an elevated rest.  He showed how you can flex your arrow down on release to cause nock high with deflection.  So I changed gloves to one I could feel the pressure better on my string.  I quit squeezing the arrow nock so tight (split).  Basically I cleaned up my release. Nock high stopped immediately.  Worked for me.  Good luck.

Found the video.  Start at 9:00
 

[LongbowArchitect]

The only thing that works for me is an elevated rest (Bear Weather Rest). With the elevated rest I get perfect bare shaft flight every shot.

[Chris Pharr]

I've watched that Ken Beck tuning video a few times. I've tried shooting 2 under to eliminate nock pinch, no luck. I don't like the feel of 2 or 3 under, just feels strange. I think I might try one of those feather rests like what comes on the Bear Kodiak, see if that helps.

[BHall]

Chris--
I don't like 2 or 3 under either.  I like the turkey feather rests better than the Bear Weather rests.  You might also try a split finger tab.  I have to really concentrate on not tensing up my string arm.  I'm just guessing for all I know it may still be a tuning issue you have.  I worked for many frustrating hours only to learn it was my release causing the problem.  On heavier bows I have no issue b/c the string is ripping out of my fingers so my crappy release is less counterproductive.  Well take care.

[kiamichi kid]

The feather rest should fix your problem. I had the same issue with the Bob Lee longbow last year. The wide shelf was the issue for me. The black widow tuning video shows why they prefer a narrow shelf. It's easier to tune and helps get nock-high out of your shot. I ended up putting a narrow strip of rest material about 1/8 of an inch on top of the material I already had on my shelf. The extra 8th inch of elevation took out the nock-high issue.

[kiamichi kid]

The feather rest should fix your problem. I had the same issue with the Bob Lee longbow last year. The wide shelf was the issue for me. The black widow tuning video shows why they prefer a narrow shelf. It's easier to tune and helps get nock-high out of your shot. I ended up putting a narrow strip of rest material about 1/8 of an inch on top of the material I already had on my shelf. The extra 8th inch of elevation took out the nock-high issue.

[M60gunner]

With all that weight up front it is a no wonder the shafts do not fly tail high naturally. Did you try a fletched shaft?
I also use a elevated rest on my recurves to help with form issues. I end up with right-left issue (spine) more so than nock high/low issues. I also read a little nock high is ok. Think that was Ken Beck that said that.

[Chris Pharr]

The shots thru the paper in my first post are with fletched shafts, shot at 6' from the paper tuning jig, as per the Easton tuning guide. I highly doubt my arrows are nose diving within 6'. Maybe out around 40-50 yards, but not 6'. I'm going to order a feather rest this afternoon, see if that helps. I know I don't have perfect form, but it would sure be hard to get consistent years while paper tuning like I'm getting if my form was that far off, IMO. I'll keep playing with it till I get that rest.
On a side note, another thread I started about feather size, I ended up trying the A&A style, as per the Ashby reports, 1/2" high in the back and 2.5" long. They work great for me, seem to handle my 1.5" wide Magnus classics just fine

[Chris Pharr]

The shots thru the paper in my first post are with fletched shafts, shot at 6' from the paper tuning jig, as per the Easton tuning guide. I'm going to order a feather rest this afternoon, see if that helps. I know I don't have perfect form, but it would sure be hard to get consistent years while paper tuning like I'm getting if my form was that far off, IMO. I'll play with my release some, see if I'm torquing the string or pinching it one way or another, flexing the shaft at full draw in a mirror tonight.
Thanks for all the thoughts, I appreciate it

[Big Ed]

Be sure that you have enough top finger on your string. I know when I use to shoot a shorter bow that I tended to drop some of my top finger pressure on the string and it gave me all kinds of tuning issues. Mainly nock high.

[Gray Buffalo]

I shoot with no pressure on my top finger and it helped my release but also caused my arrows to shoot nock high. A little more tuning and now it puts round holes in the paper. don't ask how because I just kept playing with it and now It's good to go

[MnFn]

They could be nose diving at 6 ft if nock point is too low.

[trad_bowhunter1965]

I would spray the back of my arrow with foot powder to see if you could be hitting you riser.