I want this to work !!!!!

[Stringpuller#1]

I'm a compound shooter and I'm on my 4th bought and sold recurve. I've had more stress in the last few years, spent tons of money trying to match up bows, points and shafts, looking for a great set up I can be confident enough with to hunt.
I'd like to shoot a 145-150 grain point from my 50lb Herters recurve, aluminum shaft.....I. ant keep wasting money experimenting with shafts, I just went through 6 2020's and couldn't get good flight, at the expert recommendat ion of the archery shop. 2016'S 2018's length, spine....I'm going crazy over here....help

[smokin joe]

What's your draw length with the recurve?

[A.S.]

Start with bare shaft tuning if you haven't tried it.  I would think a 1916 will be perfect, maybe even an 1816, depending on your draw length.

[Jakeemt]

Just sent you a PM. Call me and I will help you man.

You really need to get with an experienced trad guy in your area to help you thru this. Tuning can be a nightmare if you don't have it all figured out.

Good luck!

Bisch

[Roadkill]

Bosch x2

[mangonboat]

Part of your experience may be adjusting expectations. Modern compounds tend to shoot stiff, comparatively light arrows at arrow speeds at or in excess of 300 fps. A vintage Herters recurve at 50# is going to produce a noticeable arc shooting a lighter spine arrow with a heavier tip.Shooting 2020 shafts with 150 grains up front with that bow is like lobbing artillery shells compared to squeezing the trigger release on a compound.

   That 1962 Herters is a classic but part of its design is a brace height around 9 inches, which means a shorter power stroke. That bow has a limb profile that is smooth to draw but the force curve puts a premium on a full 28" draw and can handle a few more inches and a good release makes a noticeable difference.

Assuming your draw is close to 28", I would consider a 1816 shaft cut to one inch beyond your draw length and a 125 gr. point with standard 11 gr aluminum insert. Also check your string and make sure you're not shooting a using too heavy a string. Make sure your nock point is right..as you experiment with different diameter arrows, you have to adjust your nock point.

Good luck!

[Pheonixarcher]

While I have very limited experience with aluminum arrows... I can guarantee you that it WILL work! At first, traditional archery is much more difficult to wrap your head around. But to those of us who choose to embark on this journey, it is so much more rewarding and fulfilling. Most will admit that they have never really and truely mastered this art, but they'd have it no other way. Think of it as trying to earn your black belt in a martial art. That's the beauty of traditional archery. Even if you do get that black belt, there will always be more to learn, live, and love. It's all about enjoying the journey! As soon as that first light bulb goes on, and you see that first perfectly flying arrow hit exactly where you want it, you too will understand. Don't give up, it's closer than you think!

[highlow]

Phoenixarcher beat me to it. Couldn't have put it more succinctly. I too am new to this addiction. Had one hell of a time tuning one of my bows but didn't give up. After consulting a lot of threads here, re: tuning, finally came up with the right combo. A "eureka" moment and it felt good. This is what it's all about. Get back in the game and just enjoy. There are a lot more important things to get stressed about than archery.  

[Elkchaser]

Originally posted by smokin joe:
What's your draw length with the recurve?

X2
If you can get a close approximation of your draw length, I will go through my arrow bucket and see what I have in various spines that may work for you and send them your way. I should have most of the spine weights listed.
Give me a shout.

[Cyclic-Rivers]

I was in your shoes when I started. After the initial "this is way to fun stage"  i became frustrated.

Stick with it, follow advice from knowledgeable trad archers.  I dont know your pro shop but mine will sell me the wrong item 9 times out of 10 and also try to talk me out of what I want at least half the time.  They simply do not know trad bows.

The point for me when things started to "click" was when I went to a friends house and shot with him.  he spent a couple hours helping me tune my bow.  walked me through the process. My shooting narrowed from a 4 foot radius to a 1 foot, then it was just practice on my part.

Good luck and you are in the right place.  keep the questions coming.  Its ok to walk away from shooting when you get frustrated. in fact its a good thing.  Remember, this is supposed to be fun.

[BWallace10327]

Try the 3 rivers archery spine calculator and maybe don't tune arrow shafts to a specific point weight, there are a lot of other options out there besides 145-150 grains.

[reddogge]

I always could get 2016s to fly well out of 50# bows with 125 gr heads. Leave them long at first and then cut.

[Rob DiStefano]

going from a high percentage holding weight let-off compound to a trad bow that increases weight as its drawn to draw length is a big consideration.  you may very well be overbowed without knowing it.

there is absolutely no reason in the world why any of the arrows you've chosen won't work at least reasonably well.

you must seek one-on-one local help from an archer who's well versed in trad archery.

this may of great initial help ...

 trad archery for bowhunters

[BWallace10327]

Stringpuller, I've re-read the original post and the points that really stand out are;
1. You initially identify as a compound shooter, presumably using a mechanical release.  Errors in release are harder to do, so you may not be thinking about a flawed release with fingers, although it seems imperfection is not that rare when shooting fingers. Perfectly tuned arrows can behave erratically if there is even a small error in release.  Never underestimate the likelihood of human error.

2. What is your draw length and how long are the arrows?  These are important numbers, as cutting any old arrow just longer than your draw seldom works.  

3. Point weight really matters.  I don't really understand why someone would settle on a point weight and tune shafts to match that point; seems like building a deck and then building a house to match it.  

4. No mention of brace height- This is important, but not as critical as the right arrow shaft, adjustments up or down can yield perfect flight from mediocre flight.

Spine calculators are available online and are easy to use. I really like 3 Rivers Archer's version, but people speak highly of Stu's Spine calculator too. Understand the Archer's Paradox is helpful. Tuning without know-how is a frustrating experience, but there's a ton of knowledge on the topic here at Tradgang with plenty of archers much, much more knowledgeable that I who are happy to help.

[Stringpuller#1]

Thanks for all the advice, I really want to make the transition to hunting with traditional equipment. I'm way too accurate with my compound and it's just not "fun" to shoot anymore besides going hunting with it. Like I said, over the last few years I've bought recurves from the classifieds, had tons of fun slinging arrows, sometimes, until my draw fingers ache for days after, but as soon as I strip the feathers off an arrow to get "serious" about this thing, it always reveals spine issues and what not, to where I get frustrated and sell everything, falling back to the familiar compound.
Anyway, I'm determined not to give up again, especially since I had Kanati make me a custom quiver for this bow.
I'll try 2016 and see what happens, I see many people using that shaft on line who have the same draw length and draw weight.
My draw is 28", maybe a tad over and the bow is 50lbs at 28" but probably closer to 48lbs since its older and may have lost a pound or two with age......thanks again.

[mike g]

I second the 2016 with 125 up front. Cut them to 29" bop...

[VA Elite]

Here is my set up just for comparison.

51# Great Northern Super Ghost recurve @ 28"
my 27" draw (48#) with 29 " 3555 gold tip carbons with a 150 gr point shoot bare shafts and fletched arrows together at 20 yds. field points and broadhead impact is the same at 20 yds. 7 1/4" brace.

[John146]

VA Elite mentioned Gold Tips and I concur. You cannot adjust anything about an aluminum arrow except length and weight of point.

Carbons I believe will eliminate a ton of frustration here.

Get you the correct spine Gold Tip Carbon arrows (35/55 or 500 spine) and some weight inserts and you can make the arrow do what you want.

I start with the length arrow I want to shoot because this is important to me when I anchor. I want the broad head to touch my finger on my bow hand.

Then put the field point of the weight of the broad head you want to shoot up front.

Bare shaft this and see what happens. You then can add weight up front if you need to weaken your arrow spine or add weight to the back if you need to stiffen it.

I ended up with a 50 grains brass insert and 200 grain broad head up front and no weight on the back. Excellent flight and good FOC (front of center). My bow is 47# @ 28". I went to a Fred Asbell clinic years ago and watched Ken Beck shoot bare shafts 30 yards like a dart using this type of tuning protocol.

Great thing is if you switch bow weight in the future you can use the same shafts and just adjust the insert weight and tune to that bow.

I will send two attachments to your e-mail with instructions.

[VA Elite]

I forgot to mention that I also use 50gr brass inserts. for a total of 200 gr up front.