Tapered shafts

[snag]

"Breasted: An arrow shaft where the last 7 to 10 inches of the nocked end (the breast) is tapered in order to improve flight characteristics. Especially good for use with longbows. +50 feet to range along with improved trajectory."

I was reading some things over the weekend. Came across some definitions. I am asked a lot about tapered shafts. I have always preferred Surewood Shafts in a tail tapered, or breasted, shafts for my own arrows.  Might want to try them...

[StanM]

I always taper both ends, barrel tapered I think they call it. Seems like it makes a difference to me in arrow flight compared to untapered shafts of same spine. Very slight though. As poorly as I shoot I'll take every advantage I can get...   :rolleyes:

[Pat B]

I made some breast tapered poplars a few years ago and really like the way they shoot. Tapered shafts are like shooting cane or hardwood shoots, both pretty tolerant of different bow weights.

[elkken]

I always preferred tapered shafts    

[Tater]

Tapered shafts.....  

[Wudstix]

Making up some tapered Maple right now.  
         

[The Whittler]

Can you taper just to the point. The reason I ask is I have some arrows that are all done up but are way heavier then I want.

And does anyone have a jig to taper with for sale.

[Fletcher]

Whittler, yes you can, but a 10" taper from 11/32 to 5/16 will only lighten the arrow about 10 to 15 grains along with a couple pounds spine.  Unfortunately, it would remove the weight from the front of the arrow, which doesn't help with good arrow flight.

I have two thoughts on why tapering a shaft helps with flight.  First, it removes weight from the rear of the shaft which helps FOC and seems to quicken arrow "recovery".  I also think tapering has the effect of "tillering" the shaft, making it flex more evenly during the shot.  It's all theory, but that's my take.  I tail taper all my shafts.

[Soonerlongbow]

I'm using tapered shafts, just made from carbon.    

[Allen Boice]

I've shot tapered shafts for years, first in POC and now Douglas Fir. In addition to all the great information already posted here I also like the 5/16" nocks tapered shafts take. My theory is that the smaller size helps to reduce finger pinch for split finger shooters, which results in a cleaner release. I'm also of the opinion the taper helps the arrow clear the shelf better which makes arrow spine less critical than parallel shafts. All theory, but it works for me. I can still shoot my ACME POC
70-75's out of my 50# LB's with good results.

[Shadowhnter]

I've shot parallel wood shafts for a while now, but went to rear tapered shafts over a year ago. So far, I'm leaning towards preferring the taper.

[Matt Fowler]

I've tried tapered a few times over the years but never really saw any difference.

[Ron LaClair]

Master Arrow Smith Paul Jalon tapers his arrows that I sell on my website, 11/32 to 5/16. The fly   Grrreat
 http://www.shrewbows.com/autumnlegend/index.html

I figure with tapered shafts besides the dynamic end, that the shaft maker has additional handling of that shaft in which it gets examined a bit to see if it is worth tapering.  Out of hundreds of Rogue River and then Wapiti shafts, I have had two shafts that were a bit wacko.  I suspect something in the tapering was slightly off, two out of hundreds, that is a pretty good average.

[luvnlongbow]

I have shot both tapered and parallel shafts. That said I have noticed a bit better performance from the tapered shafts. I have used POC and Sitka Spruce. Love POC. However I prefer the Spruce from Hildebrand. I do have a question though. when tapering a shaft, how much does it affect the spine? A couple of pounds? Or more?

[Mud_Slide_Slim]

Yep...I can tell a difference.  I get very good flight from my own arrows I make which are all parallel.  I have a dozen that are tapered made by Snag and there is a definite difference in flight.  I currently have about 20 Mahogany barrel tapered shafts that I am working on and can't wait to start shooting them.

Bill-

[jackdaw]

Been shooting tapered POC for years..GREAT stuff...

[atatarpm]

You can taper an arrow by taking a board and cutting a grove in it, then mark it at 10 inches twice giving you one mark at 10 inches and another at 20 inches. from there put your shaft in the grove with a 7 inch hand plain start at the first grove and plain all around the shaft. Once you have done that go to the second grove and plain again all the way to the end of the shaft. Sand to round again and you have a tapered shaft.

[Shadowhnter]

I think my shafts came rear tapered a little less then 10" ....is that not enough?

[fujimo]

rear tapers one third of shaft length- it seems to effect the spine less- yet still gives the desired effect.