Originally posted by Bisch: I shoot and change until I get a bullet hole at 6 feet. If you start further out, you are giving the feathers a chance to stabilize the arrow which would hide tuning issues.I then move the paper back to about 15 feet and verify everything is the same. I then put broadheads on and shoot without the paper to make sure the broadheads go to the same place as the field points.I have been using this system for a very long time. I cannot tell you that my arrows are perfectly tuned, but I can tell you that I can screw any broadhead of the correct weight on the end of my arrow and it will impact the same as the field point arrow.Bisch [/QUOTEThanks Bisch you saved me some typingPretty much how I do it too.After all that I can take a bare shaft and group it with my fletched shafts.
Originally posted by Bisch: I shoot and change until I get a bullet hole at 6 feet. If you start further out, you are giving the feathers a chance to stabilize the arrow which would hide tuning issues.I then move the paper back to about 15 feet and verify everything is the same. I then put broadheads on and shoot without the paper to make sure the broadheads go to the same place as the field points.I have been using this system for a very long time. I cannot tell you that my arrows are perfectly tuned, but I can tell you that I can screw any broadhead of the correct weight on the end of my arrow and it will impact the same as the field point arrow.Bisch
Originally posted by DanielB89:Bisch, what do you do to make adjustments for weak arrows?
Originally posted by Fletcher: Slo mo videos confirm that arrows flex for quite a ways down range, but the point and nock ends tend to stay in line, so they can still show a small hole.
Originally posted by DanielB89:Bisch [/qb]
Originally posted by acollins: Do I paper tune with a bare shaft, or a fletched arrow.